Eight-thousander

Short description: Mountain peaks of over 8,000 m

Locations of the world's 14 eight-thousanders, which are split between the Himalayan (right), and the Karakoram mountain ranges (left)

The eight-thousanders are the 14 mountains recognised by the International Mountaineering and Climbing Federation (UIAA) as being more than 8,000 metres (26,247 ft) in height above sea level, and sufficiently independent of neighbouring peaks. There is no precise definition of the criteria used to assess independence, and, since 2012, the UIAA has been involved in a process to consider whether the list should be expanded to 20 mountains. All eight-thousanders are located in the Himalayan and Karakoram mountain ranges in Asia, and their summits are in the death zone.

From 1950 to 1964, all 14 eight-thousanders were summited in the summer (the first was Annapurna I in 1950, and the last was Shishapangma in 1964), and from 1980 to 2021, all 14 were summited in the winter (the first being Mount Everest in 1980, and the last being K2 in 2021). On a variety of statistical techniques, the deadliest eight-thousander is Annapurna I (one death – climber or climber support – for every three summiters), followed by K2 and Nanga Parbat (one death for every four to five summiters), and then Dhaulagiri and Kangchenjunga (one for every six to seven summiters).

The first person to summit all 14 eight-thousanders was the Italian climber Reinhold Messner in 1986, who did not use any supplementary oxygen. In 2010, Edurne Pasaban, a Basque Spanish mountaineer became the first woman to summit all 14 eight-thousanders, but with the aid of supplementary oxygen. In 2011, Austrian Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner became the first woman to summit all 14 eight-thousanders without the aid of supplementary oxygen. In 2013, South Korean Kim Chang-ho climbed all 14 eight-thousanders in 7 years and 310 days, without the aid of supplementary oxygen. In 2019, British-Nepalese climber Nirmal Purja, climbed all 14 eight-thousanders in 6 months and 6 days, with supplementary oxygen. In July 2022, Sanu Sherpa became the first person to summit all 14 eight-thousanders twice, which he did from 2006 to 2022.

Issues with false summits (e.g. Cho Oyu, Annapurna I and Dhaulagiri), or separated dual summits (e.g. Shishapangma and Manaslu), have led to disputed claims of ascents.[1] In 2022, after several years of research, a team of experts reported that they could only confirm evidence that three climbers, Ed Viesturs, Veikka Gustafsson and Nirmal Purja, had actually stood on the true summit of all 14 eight-thousanders.[2]

## Contents

* 1 Climbing history
* 1.1 First ascents
* 1.2 All 14
* 1.3 Deadliest
* 2 List of first ascents
* 3 List of climbers of all 14
* 3.1 Verified ascents
* 3.2 Disputed ascents
* 3.3 Verification issues
* 4 Proposed expansion
* 5 Gallery
* 6 See also
* 7 Notes
* 8 References
* 9 External links

## Climbing history

### First ascents

Flight over the Khumbu region; six eight-thousanders are visible

The first recorded attempt on an eight-thousander was when Albert F. Mummery, Geoffrey Hastings and J. Norman Collie tried to climb Pakistan's Nanga Parbat in 1895. The attempt failed when Mummery and two Gurkhas, Ragobir Thapa and Goman Singh, were killed by an avalanche.[3]

The first recorded successful ascent of an eight-thousander was by the French Maurice Herzog and Louis Lachenal, who reached the summit of Annapurna on 3 June 1950 during the 1950 French Annapurna expedition.[4] Due to its location in Tibet, Shishapangma was the last eight-thousander to be ascended, which was completed by a Chinese team led by Xu Jing in 1964 (Tibet's mountains were closed by China to foreigners until 1978).[5]

The first winter ascent of an eight-thousander was by a Polish team led by Andrzej Zawada on Mount Everest, with Leszek Cichy and Krzysztof Wielicki reaching the summit on 17 February 1980;[6] all-Polish teams would complete nine of the first fourteen winter ascents of eight-thousanders.[7] The final eight-thousander to be climbed in winter was K2, whose summit was ascended by a 10-person Nepalese team on 16 January 2021.[8]

Only two climbers have completed more than one first ascent of an eight-thousander, Hermann Buhl (Nanga Parbat and Broad Peak) and Kurt Diemberger (Broad Peak and Dhaulagiri). Buhl's summit of Nanga Parbat in 1953 is notable as being the only solo first ascent of one of the eight-thousanders. The Polish climber Jerzy Kukuczka is noted for creating over ten new routes on various eight-thousander mountains.[7] Italian climber Simone Moro made the first winter ascent of four eight-thousanders (Shishapangma, Makalu, Gasherbrum II, and Nanga Parbat),[9] while three Polish climbers have each made three first winter ascents of an eight-thousander, Maciej Berbeka (Cho Oyu, Manaslu, and Broad Peak), Krzysztof Wielicki (Everest, Kangchenjunga, and Lhotse) and Jerzy Kukuczka (Dhaulagiri I, Kangchenjunga, and Annapurna I).[7]

### All 14

Comparison of the heights of the Eight-thousanders (red triangles) with the Seven Summits and Seven Second Summits

The 30–highest peaks in the world with over 500 m (1,640 ft) in prominence[10]

On 16 October 1986, Italian Reinhold Messner became the first person to climb all 14 eight-thousanders. In 1987, Polish climber Jerzy Kukuczka became the second person to accomplish this feat.[7] Messner summited each of the 14 peaks without the aid of bottled oxygen, a feat that was only repeated by the Swiss Erhard Loretan nine years later in 1995 (Kukuczka had used supplementary oxygen while summiting Everest and on no other eight-thousander[7]).[11]

On 17 May 2010, Spanish climber Edurne Pasaban became the first woman to summit all 14 eight-thousanders.[12] In August 2011, Austrian climber Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner became the first woman to climb the 14 eight-thousanders without the use of supplementary oxygen.[13][14]

The first couple and team to summit all 14 eight-thousanders were the Italians Nives Meroi (who was the second woman to accomplish this feat without supplementary oxygen), and her husband Romano Benet (it) on 11 May 2017.[15][16] The couple climbed alpine style, without the use of supplementary oxygen or other support.[16][17]

Nepali mountain guide Kami Rita, holds the record for the most ascents of an eight-thousander peak at 38, a feat he achieved on 23 May 2023 by summiting Everest for the 28th time (which was also a record for the most summits of Everest by a climber).[18]

On 20 May 2013, South Korean climber Kim Chang-ho set a new speed record of climbing all 14 eight-thousanders, without the use of supplementary oxygen, in 7 years and 310 days. On 29 October 2019, the British-Nepali climber Nirmal Purja set a speed record for climbing all 14 eight-thousanders, with the use of supplementary oxygen, in 6 months and 6 days.[19][20][21]

In July 2022, Sanu Sherpa became the first person to summit all 14 eight-thousanders twice.[22] He started with Cho Oyu in 2006, and completed the double by summiting Gasherbrum II in July 2022.[23]

On 27 July 2023, Kristin Harila and Tenjen Lama Sherpa completed the ascent of the true geographic summits of all of the 14 eight-thousanders in 92 days, setting a new world speed record for the completion of the eight-thousanders.[24][25]

### Deadliest

Eight
thousander  | From 1950 to March 2012[26] | Climber
Death Rate
[27][28][lower-alpha 1]

|
|

Total
Ascents[lower-alpha 2] | Total
Deaths[lower-alpha 3] | Deaths/
Ascents[lower-alpha 4]
Everest | 5656 | 223 | 3.9% | 1.52%
K2  | 283 | 40 | 14.1% | 3.00%
Lhotse  | 461 | 13 | 2.8% | 1.03%
Makalu  | 361 | 31 | 8.6% | 1.63%
Cho Oyu  | 3138 | 44 | 1.4% | 0.64%
Dhaulagiri I  | 448 | 69 | 15.4% | 2.94%
Manaslu  | 661 | 65 | 9.8% | 2.77%
Nanga Parbat  | 335 | 68 | 20.3% | –[lower-alpha 5]
Annapurna I  | 191 | 61 | 31.9% | 4.05%
Gasherbrum I
(Hidden Peak)  | 334 | 29 | 8.7% | –[lower-alpha 5]
Broad Peak  | 404 | 21 | 5.2% | –[lower-alpha 5]
Gasherbrum II  | 930 | 21 | 2.3% | –[lower-alpha 5]
Shishapangma  | 302 | 25 | 8.3% |

The extreme altitude and the fact that the summits of all eight-thousanders lie in the Death Zone mean that climber mortality (or death rate), is high.[30] Two metrics are quoted to establish a death rate (i.e. broad and narrow) that are used to rank the eight-thousanders in order of deadliest (note that they are also the world's overall deadliest mountains).[29][31]

* Broad death rate: The first metric is the ratio of successful climbers summiting to total deaths[lower-alpha 3] on the mountain over a given period.[29] The Guinness Book of World Records uses this metric to name Annapurna I as the deadliest eight-thousander, and the world's deadliest mountain with roughly one person dying for every three people who successfully summit, i.e. a ratio of circa 30%.[32] Using consistent data from 1950 to 2012, mountaineering statistician Eberhard Jurgalski (see table below) used this metric to show Annapurna is the deadliest mountain (31.9%), followed by K2 (26.5%), Nanga Parbat (20.3%), Dhaulagiri (15.4%) and Kangchenjunga (14.1%).[29] Other statistical sources including MountainIQ, used a mix of data periods from 1900 to Spring 2021 but had similar results showing Annapurna still being the deadliest mountain (27.2%), followed by K2 (22.8%), Nanga Parbat (20.75%), Kangchenjunga (15%), and Dhaulagiri (13.5%).[31][30] Cho Oyu as the safest at 1.4%.[29][31]
* Narrow death rate: The drawback of the first metric is that it includes the deaths of any support climbers or climbing sherpas that went above base camp in assisting the climb; therefore, rather than being the probability that a climber will die attempting to summit an eight-thousander, it is more akin to the total human cost in getting a climber to the summit.[27] In the Himalayan Database (HDB) tables, the climber (or member) "Death Rate" is the ratio of deaths above base camp, of all climbers who were hoping to summit and who went above base camp (calculated for 1950 to 2009), and is closer to a true probability of death (see table below).[27] The data is only for the Nepalese Himalaya and therefore does not include K2 or Nanga Parbat.[27] HDB estimates that the probability of death for a climber who is attempting the summit of an eight-thousander is still highest for Annapurna I (4%), followed by Kangchenjunga (3%) and Dhaulagiri (3%); the safest mountain is still Cho Oyu at 0.6%.[27]

The summary tables from the HDB report for all mountains above 8,000 meters also imply that the death rate of climbers for the period 1990 to 2009 (e.g. modern expeditions), is roughly half that of the combined 1950 to 2009 period, i.e. climbing is becoming safer for the climbers attempting the summit.[27]

## List of first ascents

From 1950 to 1964, all 14 of the eight-thousanders were summited in the summer (the first was Annapurna I in 1950, and the last was Shishapangma in 1964), and from 1980 to 2021, all 14 were summited in the winter (the first being Everest in 1980, and the last being K2 in 2021).

First ascent and first winter ascent for each of the 14 eight-thousanders[33][26] Mountain[33] | First ascent[33] | First winter ascent[33]

|
|

Name  | Height[34] | Prom.[34] | Country  | Date  | Summiter(s)  | Date  | Summiter(s)
Everest | 8,849 m
(29,032 ft)[35] | 8,849 m
(29,032 ft)  |  Nepal
China | 29 May 1953  |  Edmund Hillary

Tenzing Norgay
on British expedition

| 17 February 1980
|  Krzysztof Wielicki
Leszek Cichy
K2  | 8,611 m
(28,251 ft)  | 4,020 m
(13,190 ft)  |  Pakistan
China[36] | 31 July 1954  |  Achille Compagnoni
Lino Lacedelli

on Italian expedition

| 16 January 2021[8] |  Template:Country data NPLNirmal Purja[40]

Template:Country data NPL Gelje Sherpa
Template:Country data NPL Mingma David Sherpa
Template:Country data NPL Mingma Gyalje Sherpa
Template:Country data NPL Sona Sherpa
Template:Country data NPL Mingma Tenzi Sherpa
Template:Country data NPL Pem Chhiri Sherpa
Template:Country data NPL Dawa Temba Sherpa
Template:Country data NPL Kili Pemba Sherpa
Template:Country data NPL Dawa Tenjing Sherpa

Kangchenjunga  | 8,586 m
(28,169 ft)  | 3,922 m
(12,867 ft)  |  Nepal
India[41] | 25 May 1955  |  George Band
Joe Brown
on British expedition  | 11 January 1986  |  Krzysztof Wielicki
Jerzy Kukuczka
Lhotse  | 8,516 m
(27,940 ft)  | 610 m
(2,000 ft)  |  Nepal
China | 18 May 1956  | Template:Country data CH Fritz Luchsinger
Template:Country data CH Ernst Reiss | 31 December 1988  |  Krzysztof Wielicki
Makalu  | 8,485 m
(27,838 ft)  | 2,378 m
(7,802 ft)  |  Nepal
China | 15 May 1955  |  Jean Couzy
Lionel Terray
on French expedition | 9 February 2009  |  Simone Moro
Denis Urubko
Cho Oyu  | 8,188 m
(26,864 ft)  | 2,344 m
(7,690 ft)  |  Nepal
China | 19 October 1954  |  Joseph Joechler
Template:Country data NEP Pasang Dawa Lama
Herbert Tichy | 12 February 1985  |  Maciej Berbeka
Maciej Pawlikowski
Dhaulagiri I  | 8,167 m
(26,795 ft)  | 3,357 m
(11,014 ft)  |  Nepal | 13 May 1960  |  Kurt Diemberger
Peter Diener
Template:Country data NEP Nawang Dorje
Template:Country data NEP Nima Dorje
Template:Country data CH Ernst Forrer
Template:Country data CH Albin Schelbert | 21 January 1985  |  Andrzej Czok
Jerzy Kukuczka
Manaslu  | 8,163 m
(26,781 ft)  | 3,092 m
(10,144 ft)  |  Nepal | 9 May 1956  |  Toshio Imanishi
Template:Country data NEP Gyalzen Norbu | 12 January 1984  |  Maciej Berbeka
Ryszard Gajewski
Nanga Parbat  | 8,125 m
(26,657 ft)  | 4,608 m
(15,118 ft)  |  Pakistan | 3 July 1953  |  Hermann Buhl
on German–Austrian expedition  | 26 February 2016  |  Muhammad Ali Sadpara
Simone Moro
Alex Txikon
Annapurna I  | 8,091 m
(26,545 ft)  | 2,984 m
(9,790 ft)  |  Nepal | 3 June 1950  |  Maurice Herzog
Louis Lachenal

on French expedition

| 3 February 1987  |  Jerzy Kukuczka
Artur Hajzer
Gasherbrum I
(Hidden Peak)  | 8,080 m
(26,510 ft)  | 2,155 m
(7,070 ft)  |  Pakistan
China | 5 July 1958  |  Andrew Kauffman
Pete Schoening | 9 March 2012  |  Adam Bielecki
Janusz Gołąb
Broad Peak  | 8,051 m
(26,414 ft)  | 1,701 m
(5,581 ft)  |  Pakistan
China | 9 June 1957  |  Fritz Wintersteller
Marcus Schmuck
Kurt Diemberger
Hermann Buhl
| 5 March 2013  |  Maciej Berbeka
Adam Bielecki
Tomasz Kowalski
Artur Małek
Gasherbrum II  | 8,034 m
(26,358 ft)  | 1,524 m
(5,000 ft)  |  Pakistan
China | 7 July 1956  |  Fritz Moravec
Josef Larch
Hans Willenpart | 2 February 2011  |  Simone Moro
Denis Urubko
Cory Richards
Shishapangma  | 8,027 m
(26,335 ft)  | 2,897 m
(9,505 ft)  |  China | 2 May 1964  |  Xu Jing
Chang Chun-yen
Wang Fuzhou
Chen San
Cheng Tien-liang
Wu Tsung-yue
Sodnam Doji
Migmar Trashi
Doji
Yonten | 14 January 2005  |  Piotr Morawski
Simone Moro

## List of climbers of all 14

First to climb all 14 eight-thousanders

File:GianAngelo Pistoia - Reinhold Messner - Foto 1.TIF

Reinhold Messner, first to climb all 14, and without oxygen

Edurne Pasaban, the first woman to climb all 14 after Oh Eun-sun's claim was disputed

Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner, the first woman to climb all 14 without oxygen

There is no single undisputed source for verified Himalayan ascents.

Various mountaineering journals, including the Alpine Journal and the American Alpine Journal, also maintain extensive records and archives on expeditions to the eight-thousanders, but do not always opine on disputed ascents, and nor do they maintain registers or lists of verified ascents of the eight-thousanders.[1][42]

Elizabeth Hawley's The Himalayan Database,[43] is considered as an important source for verified ascents for the Nepalese Himalayas.[44][45] Online databases of Himalayan ascents pay close regard to The Himalayan Database, including the website AdventureStats.com,[46] and the Eberhard Jurgalski List.[1][42][47]

### Verified ascents

First person to summit all 14 eight-thousanders, and first to do so without supplementary oxygen

First female to summit all 14 eight-thousanders; with supplementary oxygen

First female to summit all 14 eight-thousanders; no supplementary oxygen

Fastest ascent of all 14 eight-thousanders; with supplementary oxygen

Fastest ascent of all 14 eight-thousanders; no supplementary oxygen

Youngest person to climb all 14 eight-thousanders

First disabled person to have summited all 14 eight-thousanders

The "No O2" column lists people who have climbed all 14 eight-thousanders without supplementary oxygen.

Order  | Order
(No O2)  | Name  | Period climbing
eight-thousanders  | Born  | Age  | Nationality

|
|
|
|
|
|

1  | 1  | Reinhold Messner | 1970–1986  | 1944  | 42  |  Italian
2  |  | Jerzy Kukuczka  | 1979–1987  | 1948  | 39  |  Polish
3  | 2  | Erhard Loretan  | 1982–1995  | 1959  | 36  |  Swiss
4  | [48] | Carlos Carsolio  | 1985–1996  | 1962  | 33  |  Mexican
5  |  | Krzysztof Wielicki  | 1980–1996  | 1950  | 46  |  Polish
6  | 3  | Juanito Oiarzabal  | 1985–1999  | 1956  | 43  |  Spanish
7  |  | Sergio Martini  | 1983–2000  | 1949  | 51  |  Italian
8  |  | Park Young-seok  | 1993–2001  | 1963  | 38  |  Korean
9  |  | Um Hong-gil  | 1988–2001  | 1960[49] | 40  |  Korean
10  | 4  | Alberto Iñurrategi  | 1991–2002[50] | 1968  | 33  |  Spanish
11  |  | Han Wang-yong  | 1994–2003  | 1966  | 37  |  Korean
12  | 5[51] | Ed Viesturs  | 1989–2005  | 1959  | 46  |  American
13  | 6[52][53][54] | Silvio Mondinelli  | 1993–2007  | 1958  | 49  |  Italian
14  | 7[55] | Ivan Vallejo  | 1997–2008  | 1959  | 49  |  Ecuadorian
15  | 8[56] | Denis Urubko  | 2000–2009  | 1973  | 35  |  Kazakhstani
16  |  | Ralf Dujmovits  | 1990–2009  | 1961[57] | 47  |  German
17[58] | 9[59] | Veikka Gustafsson  | 1993–2009  | 1968  | 41  |  Finnish
18[60] |  | Andrew Lock  | 1993–2009  | 1961[61] | 48  |  Australian
19  | 10  | João Garcia  | 1993–2010  | 1967  | 43  |  Portuguese
20[62] |  | Piotr Pustelnik  | 1990–2010  | 1951  | 58  |  Polish
21[63] |  | Edurne Pasaban  | 2001–2010  | 1973  | 36  |  Spanish
22[64] |  | Abele Blanc  | 1992–2011[65][66] | 1954  | 56  |  Italian
23  |  | Mingma Sherpa  | 2000–2011[65] | 1978  | 33  |  Nepali
24  | 11  | Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner  | 1998–2011[65] | 1970  | 40  |  Austrian
25  |  | Vassily Pivtsov (de)  | 2001–2011[65] | 1975  | 36  |  Kazakhstani
26  | 12  | Maxut Zhumayev  | 2001–2011[65] | 1977  | 34  |  Kazakhstani
27  |  | Kim Jae-soo (de)  | 2000–2011[65] | 1961  | 50  |  Korean
28[67] | 13  | Mario Panzeri  | 1988–2012  | 1964  | 48  |  Italian
29[68] |  | Hirotaka Takeuchi  | 1995–2012[68] | 1971  | 41  |  Japanese
30  |  | Chhang Dawa Sherpa  | 2001–2013[65] | 1982  | 30  |  Nepali
31  | 14  | Kim Chang-ho  | 2005–2013[65] | 1970  | 43  |  Korean
32  |  | Jorge Egocheaga (eu)  | 2002–2014[69] | 1968  | 45  |  Spanish
33  | 15  | Radek Jaroš  | 1998–2014[65] | 1964  | 50  |  Czech
34/35[70] | 16/17[70] | Nives Meroi  | 1998–2017[71][72] | 1961  | 55  |  Italian
34/35[70] | 16/17[70] | Romano Benet (it)  | 1998–2017[71][72][73] | 1962  | 55  |  Italian /  Slovenian
36  |  | Peter Hámor (sk)  | 1998–2017[74][75][76] | 1964  | 52  |  Slovak
37  | 18  | Azim Gheychisaz  | 2008–2017[77] | 1981  | 37  |  Iranian
38  |  | Ferran Latorre  | 1999–2017[78] | 1970  | 46  |  Spanish
39  | 19  | Òscar Cadiach  | 1984–2017[79] | 1952  | 64  |  Spanish
40  |  | Kim Mi-gon  | 2000–2018[80][81] | 1973  | 45  |  Korean
41  |  | Sanu Sherpa  | 2006–2019[82] | 1975  | 44  |  Nepali
42  |  | Nirmal Purja  | 2014–2019[21][83][lower-alpha 6] | 1983  | 36  | British[37][38][39]
43  |  | Mingma Gyabu Sherpa  | 2010–2019[84][85] | 1989  | 30  |  Nepali
44  |  | Kim Hong-bin  | 2006–2021[86][87][88] | 1964  | 57  |  Korean
45  |  | Nima Gyalzen Sherpa  | 2004–2022[89][90] | 1985  | 37  |  Nepali
46  |  | Dong Hong Juan  | 2015–2023[91][92] | 1981  | 42  |  Chinese
47  |  | Kristin Harila  | 2021–2023[93][94] | 1986  | 37  |  Norwegian
48  |  | Sophie Lavaud  | 2012–2023[95][96][97][98] | 1968  | 55  | Template:Country data Swiss Swiss /  French /  Canadian
49  |  | Tunç Fındık  | 2001–2023[97][98] | 1972  | 51  |  Turkish
50  |  | Tenjen Lama Sherpa  | 2016–2023[24][25][99] |  | 35[100] |  Nepali
51  |  | Gelje Sherpa  | 2017–2023[101][102][103] | 1992[101] | 30  |  Nepali

### Disputed ascents

Claims have been made for summiting all 14 peaks for which not enough evidence was provided to verify the ascent; the disputed ascent in each claim is shown in parentheses in the table below. In most cases, the Himalayan chronicler Elizabeth Hawley is considered a definitive source regarding the facts of the dispute. Her The Himalayan Database is the source for other online Himalayan ascent databases (e.g. AdventureStats.com).[44][45] The Eberhard Jurgalski List is also another important source for independent verification of claims to have summited all 14 eight-thousanders.[1][42]

Name and details  | Period climbing
eight-thousanders  | Born  | Age  | Nationality

|
|
|
|

1983–1998  | 1952  | 46  |  Italian
Alan Hinkes (Cho Oyu 1990)Cite error: Closing `</ref>` missing for `<ref>` tag[104])[105][106]
As he did not claim the main summit of Shishapangma, this status is unlikely to change. | 1993–2004
(deceased)  | 1953  | 49  |  Ukrainian
Oh Eun-sun (Kangchenjunga 2009)[107][108][109]
As the potential first female climber of all 14, this dispute was followed internationally.[108] | 1997–2010  | 1966  | 44  |  Korean
Carlos Pauner (es) (Shishapangma 2012)[110]
Pauner acknowledged his uncertainty as it was dark; said he might reclimb.[111] | 2001–2013  | 1963  | 50  |  Spanish
Zhang Liang (Shishapangma 2018)[112][113][114]
Suspected the 2018 Chinese Shishapangma expedition stopped at central summit. | 2000–2018  | 1964  | 54  |  Chinese

### Verification issues

A recurrent problem with verification is the confirmation that the climber reached the true peak of the eight-thousander. Eight-thousanders present unique problems in this regard as they are so infrequently summited, their summits have not yet been exhaustively surveyed, and summiting climbers are often suffering the extreme altitude and weather effects of being in the death zone.[1][42]

Cho Oyu for example, is a recurrent problem eight-thousander as its true peak is a small hump about a thirty minutes walk into the large flat summit plateau that lies in the death zone. The true peak is often obscured in very poor weather, and this led to the disputed ascent (per the table above) of British climber, Alan Hinkes (who has refused to re-climb the peak).[115][116] Shishapangma is another problem peak because of its dual summits, which despite being close in height, are up to two hours climbing time apart and require the crossing of an exposed and dangerous snow ridge.[1][117] When Hawley judged that Ed Viesturs had not reached the true summit of Shishapangma (which she deduced from his summit photos and interviews), he then re-climbed the mountain to definitively establish his ascent.[118][1]

In a May 2021 interview with the New York Times, Jurgalski pointed out further issues with false summits on Annapurna I (a long ridge with multiple summits), Dhaulagiri (misleading false summit metal pole), and Manaslu (additional sharp and dangerous ridge to the true summit, like Shishapangma), noting that of the existing 44 accepted claims (as per the table earlier), at least 7 had serious question marks (these were in addition to the table of disputed ascents), and even noting that "It is possible that no one has ever been on the true summit of all 14 of the 8,000-meter peaks".[1] In June 2021, Australian climber Damien Gildea wrote an article in the American Alpine Journal on the work that Jurgalski and a team of international experts were doing in this area, including publishing detailed surveys of the problem summits using data from the German Aerospace Center.[42]

In July 2022, Jurgalski posted conclusions of the team's research (the wider team being of Rodolphe Popier and Tobias Pantel of The Himalayan Database, and Damien Gildea, Federico Bernardi, Bob Schelfhout Aubertijn, and Thaneswar Guragai). According to their analysis, only three climbers, Ed Viesturs, Veikka Gustafsson and Nirmal Purja have stood on the true summit of all 14 eight-thousanders, and no female climber had yet done so.[2] Viesturs is also the first to have done so without the use of oxygen.[2] Jurgalski allowed for the fact that they had deliberately not stood on the true summit of Kangchenjunga out of religious respect.[2] The team has not formally published their work, and according to Popier, they had not decided about "the best respectful form to present it".[2]

## Proposed expansion

In 2012, to relieve capacity pressure and overcrowding on the world's highest mountain, greater restrictions were placed on expeditions to the summit of Mount Everest.[119] To address the growing capacity constraints, Nepal lobbied the International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation (or UIAA) to reclassify five subsidiary summits (two on Lhotse and three on Kanchenjunga), as standalone eight-thousanders, while Pakistan lobbied for a sixth subsidiary summit (on Broad Peak) as a standalone eight-thousander.[120] See table below for list of all subsidiary summits of eight-thousander mountains.

In 2012, the UIAA initiated the ARUGA Project, with an aim to see if these six new 8,000 m (26,247 ft)-plus peaks could feasibly achieve international recognition.[120] The proposed six new eight-thousander peaks have a topographic prominence above 60 m (197 ft), but none would meet the wider UIAA prominence threshold of 600 m (1,969 ft) (the lowest prominence of the existing 14 eight-thousanders is Lhotse, at 610 metres (2,001 ft)).[121][122] Critics noted that of the six proposed, only Broad Peak Central, with a prominence of 181 metres (594 ft), would even meet the 150 metres (492 ft) prominence threshold to be a British Isles Marilyn.[121] The appeal noted the UIAA's 1994 reclassification of Alpine four-thousander peaks used a prominence threshold of 30 m (98 ft),[lower-alpha 7] amongst other criteria; the logic being that if 30 m (98 ft) worked for 4,000 m (13,123 ft) summits, then 60 m (197 ft) is proportional for 8,000 m (26,247 ft) summits.[123]

(As of November 2018), there has been no conclusion by the UIAA and the proposals appear to have been set aside.

Proposed to the UIAA in 2012 for reclassification as standalone eight-thousanders.[120]

Proposed new eight-thousander  | Height
(m)  | Prominence
(m)  | Dominance
(Prom / Height)[124] | Dominance
classification[124]

|
|
|
|

Broad Peak Central | 8011 | 181 | 2,26 | B2
Kangchenjunga W-Peak (Yalung Kang) | 8505 | 135 | 1,59 | C1
Kangchenjunga S-Peak | 8476 | 116 | 1,37 | C2
Kangchenjunga C-Peak | 8473 | 63 | 0,74 | C2
Lhotse C-Peak I (Lhotse Middle) | 8410 | 65 | 0,77 | C2
Lhotse Shar | 8382 | 72 | 0,86 | C2
K 2 SW-Peak | 8580 | 30 | 0,35 | D1
Lhotse C-Peak II | 8372 | 37 | 0,44 | D1
Everest W-Peak | 8296 | 30 | 0,36 | D1
Yalung Kang Shoulder | 8200 | 40 | 0,49 | D1
Kangchenjunga SE-Peak | 8150 | 30 | 0,37 | D1
K 2 P. 8134 (SW-Ridge) | 8134 | 35 | 0,43 | D1
Annapurna C-Peak | 8013 | 49 | 0,61 | D1
Nanga Parbat S-Peak | 8042 | 30 | 0,37 | D1
Annapurna E-Peak | 7986 | 65 | 0,81 | C2
Shisha Pangma C-Peak | 8008 | 30 | 0,37 | D1
Everest NE-Shoulder | 8423 | 19 | 0,23 | D2
Everest NE-Pinnacle III | 8383 | 13 | 0,16 | D2
Lhotse N-Pinnacle III | 8327 | 10 | 0,12 | D2
Lhotse N-Pinnacle II | 8307 | 12 | 0,14 | D2
Lhotse N-Pinnacle I | 8290 | 10 | 0,12 | D2
Everest NE-Pinnacle II | 8282 | 25 | 0,30 | D2

## Gallery

* No. 1 – Mount Everest

* No. 2 – K2

* No. 3 – Kangchenjunga

* No. 4 – Lhotse

* No. 5 – Makalu

* No. 6 – Cho Oyu

* No. 7 – Dhaulagiri

* No. 8 – Manaslu

* No. 9 – Nanga Parbat

* No. 10 – Annapurna

* No. 11 – Gasherbrum I

* No. 12 – Broad Peak

* No. 13 – Gasherbrum II

* No. 14 – Shishapangma

## See also

* List of deaths on eight-thousanders
* List of Mount Everest summiters by number of times to the summit
* List of ski descents of eight-thousanders
* Three Poles Challenge, the North Pole, the South Pole, and Mount Everest
* Explorers Grand Slam, the North Pole, the South Pole, and the Seven Summits
* Volcanic Seven Summits, the highest volcanos on each continent
* Fourteener, peak with at least 14,000 ft. elevation
* List of mountains by elevation

## Notes

1. ↑ Per The Himalayan Database (HDB) tables, the Climber (or Member) Death Rate is the ratio of deaths above base camp, of all climbers who were hoping to summit and who went above base camp, for 1950 to 2009, and is closer to a true probability of death; the data is only for Nepalese Himalaya. Summary tables from the HDB report for all mountains above 8,000 metres, imply that the death rate for the period 1990 to 2009 (e.g. modern expeditions), is roughly half that of the combined 1950 to 2009 period.[27]
2. ↑ As recorded by Eberhard Jurgalski
3. ↑ 3.0 3.1 As recorded by Eberhard Jurgalski and being any death (climber or other) above Base Camp.[29]
4. ↑ This should not be mistaken as being a death rate; it does not imply a probability of death for a climber attempting to climb an eight-thousander as it includes all deaths from all activities undertaken above base camp (e.g. training or reconnaissance trips, camp stocking activities by porters who will not be summiting the mountain, rescue attempts etc.). It, therefore, compares deaths from the larger group of people who were, and were not, making a summit attempt, with the smaller group who were making a summit attempt. While it is not a probability, the statistic does reflect the ratio of people who died above base camp for each climber who summited.
5. ↑ 5.0 5.1 5.2 5.3 Data is not available for the Pakistani Himalayas
6. ↑ Nirmal Purja climbed all fourteen 8,000m peaks between April 2019 and October 2019, but climbed his first, Dhaulagiri, in 2014.
7. ↑ The UIAA main list also includes summits that have a prominence far lower than 30 metres.

## References

1. ↑ 1.0 1.1 1.2 1.3 1.4 1.5 1.6 1.7 Branch, John (21 May 2021). "What is a summit: Only 44 people have reached the summit of all 14 of the world's 8,000-meter peaks, according to the people who chronicle such things.". New York Times. https://www.nytimes.com/interactive/2021/sports/tallest-mountain-summit.html. Retrieved 10 December 2021.
2. ↑ 2.0 2.1 2.2 2.3 2.4 Franz, Derek (20 July 2022). "Researchers challenge historical records for 8000-meter peaks". http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web22c/newswire-8000er-records-challenged-by-photographic-research. Retrieved 3 August 2022.
3. ↑ "Fast Facts About Nanga Parbat". climbing.about.com. http://climbing.about.com/od/8000metermountains/a/NangaParbatFact.htm.
4. ↑ Herzog, Maurice (1951). Annapurna: First Conquest of an 8000-meter Peak. Translated from the French by Nea Morin and Janet Adam Smith. New York: E.P Dutton & Co.. p. 257.
5. ↑ Yi Wyn Yen (14 November 2004). "Finding China". https://vault.si.com/vault/2004/11/15/finding-china. Retrieved 5 August 2022.
6. ↑ Zawada, Andrzej (1984). "Mount Everest: The First Winter Ascent". The Alpine Journal: 50–59. https://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_1984_files/AJ 1984 50-59 Zawada Everest.pdf.
7. ↑ 7.0 7.1 7.2 7.3 7.4 Hobley, Nicholas (24 October 2019). "Remembering Jerzy Kukuczka, the legendary Polish mountaineer". https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/alpinism/remembering-jerzy-kukuczka-the-legendary-polish-mountaineer.html.
8. ↑ 8.0 8.1 Farmer, Ben (16 January 2021). "Former Gurkha Nirmal Purja among Nepalese climbers to complete first winter ascent of deadly K2". The Daily Telegraph. https://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/2021/01/16/former-gurkha-nirmal-purja-among-nepalese-climbers-complete/.
9. ↑ Rossi, Marcello (13 December 2021). ""It's a Suffering Game": Simone Moro and the Fine Art of Climbing 8,000m Peaks in Winter". https://www.climbing.com/people/simon-moro-worlds-greatest-winter-mountaneer/. Retrieved 4 August 2022.
10. ↑ PEAKBAGGER: World 7200-meter Peaks (Ranked Peaks have 500 meters of Clean Prominence)
11. ↑ Stefanello, Vinicio (29 April 2011). "Erhard Loretan, good-bye to a great alpinist". https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/alpinism/erhard-loretan-good-bye-to-a-great-alpinist.html. Retrieved 4 August 2022.
12. ↑ "Oh Eun-Sun report, final: Edurne Pasaban takes the throne". ExplorersWeb. 10 December 2010. http://explorersweb.com/everest_k2/news.php?id=19771.
13. ↑ "Austrian woman claims Himalayas climbing record". BBC News. 23 August 2011. https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/world-europe-14641414.
14. ↑ "Austrian is first woman to scale 14 peaks without oxygen". AsiaOne. 30 August 2011. http://www.asiaone.com/News/AsiaOne+News/World/Story/A1Story20110823-295884.html.
15. ↑ "Italians become first couple to scale all eight-thousanders" (in en). ansa.it. 2017-05-11. https://www.ansa.it/english/news/2017/05/11/italians-become-first-couple-to-scale-all-eight-thousanders_d773a802-f6b2-4d88-b485-b1ce4c015618.html.
16. ↑ 16.0 16.1 Stefanello, Vinicio (11 May 2017). "Nives Meroi and Romano Benet summit Annapurna, their 14th 8000er". https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/alpinism/nives-meroi-and-romano-benet-summit-annapurna-their-14th-8000er.html. Retrieved 5 August 2022.
17. ↑ "Alpinismo, il record di Meroi-Benet: è italiana la prima coppia su tutti gli Ottomila". 11 May 2017. http://www.repubblica.it/sport/vari/2017/05/11/news/nives_meroi_romano_benet_prima_coppia_su_tutti_ottomila-165156761/.
18. ↑ "Most climbs over 8,000 metres". 23 May 2023. https://www.guinnessworldrecords.com/world-records/384190-most-climbs-over-8-000-m.
19. ↑ Atwal, Sanj (3 December 2021). "14 Peaks: All the records Nims Purja broke in new Netflix documentary". https://www.guinnessworldrecords.com/news/2021/12/14-peaks-all-the-records-nims-purja-broke-in-new-netflix-documentary-684255. Retrieved 5 December 2021.
20. ↑ "Nirmal Purja: Ex-soldier climbs 14 highest mountains in six months". 29 October 2019. https://www.bbc.com/news/world-asia-50217376. "A Nepali mountaineer and former British Marine has climbed the world's tallest 14 peaks in six months - beating an earlier record of almost eight years."
21. ↑ 21.0 21.1 Freddie Wilkinson. "Nepal climber makes history speed climbing world's tallest peaks". National Geographic. https://www.nationalgeographic.com/adventure/2019/05/climber-record-summits-six-eight-thousand-meter-peaks-one-month/. Retrieved 24 December 2019. "On October 29th, Nirmal Purja Magar announced via Instagram that he had summited China's Shishapangma. This marked the fourteenth 8,000-meter peak he had climbed in seven months and the completion of an extraordinary project to speed climb the world's tallest mountains in rapid succession.".
22. ↑ Sharma, Gopal (21 July 2022). "Nepali Sherpa sets climbing record on Pakistan mountain". https://www.reuters.com/world/asia-pacific/nepali-sherpa-sets-climbing-record-pakistan-mountain-2022-07-21/. Retrieved 5 August 2022.
23. ↑ "World record: Sanu Sherpa has climbed all 14 eight-thousanders twice". 28 July 2022. https://www.lacrux.com/en/alpinism/world-record-sanu-sherpa-has-climbed-all-14-eight-thousanders-twice/. Retrieved 5 August 2022.
24. ↑ 24.0 24.1 Arnette, Alan (2023-07-27). "K2 2023 Coverage: Kristin Harila gets K2 for her Last 8000er" (in en). https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2023/07/27/k2-2023-coverage-kristin-harila-gets-k2-for-her-last-8000er/.
25. ↑ 25.0 25.1 "Kristin Harila, Tenjen Sherpa world's fastest to climb 14 peaks in 92 days" (in en). 2023-07-27. https://thehimalayantimes.com/nepal/kristin-harila-tenjen-sherpa-worlds-fastest-to-climb-14-peaks-in-92-days.
26. ↑ 26.0 26.1 Cite error: Invalid `<ref>` tag; no text was provided for refs named `economist2013`
27. ↑ 27.0 27.1 27.2 27.3 27.4 27.5 27.6 "The Himalaya by the Numbers: A Statistical Analysis of Mountaineering in the Nepal Himalaya". 2011. p. 129. http://www.himalayandatabase.com/downloads/hbnsampl.pdf. "Table D-3: Deaths for peaks with more than 750 members above base camp from 1950–2009"
28. ↑ "Himalayan Death Tolls". The Washington Post. 24 April 2014. https://www.washingtonpost.com/world/himalayan-death-tolls/2014/04/24/6eafed0e-cbee-11e3-93eb-6c0037dde2ad_graphic.html?noredirect=on.
29. ↑ 29.0 29.1 29.2 29.3 29.4 Eberhard Jurgalski. "Fatalities tables". 8000ers.com. http://www.8000ers.com/cms/en/downloads-info-mainmenu-231.html. "Included are only fatalities from, at or above BC or caused from there. Fatalities on approach or return marches are not listed."
30. ↑ 30.0 30.1 Armstrong, Martin (10 December 2021). "Deadly Peaks". https://www.statista.com/chart/26383/expedition-death-rate-of-mountains-over-8-thousand-meters/. Retrieved 13 December 2021.
31. ↑ 31.0 31.1 31.2 Whitman, Mark (22 December 2020). "Eight Thousanders – The Complete 8000ers Guide". https://www.mountainiq.com/guides/eight-thousanders/. Retrieved 13 December 2021.
32. ↑ "Deadliest mountain to climb". 2019. https://www.guinnessworldrecords.com/world-records/deadliest-mountain-to-climb. Retrieved 13 December 2021.
33. ↑ 33.0 33.1 33.2 33.3 Cite error: Invalid `<ref>` tag; no text was provided for refs named `8000ersGen`
34. ↑ 34.0 34.1 PeakBagger: World 8000–metre Peaks
35. ↑ "Mount Everest is two feet taller, China and Nepal announce". National Geographic. https://www.nationalgeographic.com/science/2020/12/new-height-of-mount-everest-announced-by-china-and-nepal/.
36. ↑ "K2 lies in Pakistan, near the northern border with China". BBC News. 26 July 2014. https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/world-asia-28500721.
37. ↑ 37.0 37.1 "All-Nepali winter first on K2". Nepali Times. 16 January 2021. https://www.nepalitimes.com/here-now/all-nepali-winter-first-on-K2/.
38. ↑ 38.0 38.1 Naresh Koirala (16 January 2022). "A matter of pride". The Kathmandu Times. https://kathmandupost.com/columns/2022/01/16/a-matter-of-pride.
39. ↑ 39.0 39.1 Tom Robbins (1 January 2022). "Life lessons from mountaineer Nirmal Purja, of Netflix's 14 Peaks fame". CNA Luxury. https://cnaluxury.channelnewsasia.com/people/nirmal-purja-netflix-14-peaks-193581.
40. ↑ [37][38][39]
41. ↑ Harding, Luke (13 July 2000). "Climbers banned from sacred peak". https://www.theguardian.com/world/2000/jul/13/lukeharding.
42. ↑ 42.0 42.1 42.2 42.3 42.4 Gildea, Damien (June 2021). "THE 8000-ER MESS". American Alpine Journal 62 (94). http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201215692. Retrieved 10 December 2021.
43. ↑ "The Himalayan Database, The Expedition Archives of Elizabeth Hawley". The Himalayan Database. 2018. http://www.himalayandatabase.com/.
44. ↑ 44.0 44.1 If a mountaineer wants worldwide recognition that they have reached the summit of some of the most formidable mountains in the world, they will need to get the approval of Elizabeth Hawley."Elizabeth Hawley, unrivalled Himalayan record keeper". BBC News. 29 August 2010. https://www.bbc.com/news/world-south-asia-10268549.
45. ↑ 45.0 45.1 "Elizabeth Hawley, Who Chronicled Everest Treks, Dies at 94". The New York Times. 26 January 2018. https://www.nytimes.com/2018/01/26/obituaries/elizabeth-hawley-who-chronicled-everest-treks-dies-at-94.html.
46. ↑ "High Altitude Mountaineering statistics". AdventureStats.com. 2018. http://www.adventurestats.com/#mountain.
47. ↑ "Climbers who have ascended to the summits of all of the world's 14 mountains over 8000 metres". 8000ers.com (Eberhard Jurgalski). 2018. http://www.8000ers.com/cms/download.html?func=startdown&id=155.
48. ↑ Carlos Carsolio required emergency oxygen on his descent from Makalu in 1988.
49. ↑ EverestNews2004.com, News (age calculated: in 2004 Hong-Gil Um was 44). "Mr. Um Hong Gil has bagged his 15th 8000 meter peak". http://www.kukuxumusu.com/web/news_nove1.php?id=36&lang=eng.
50. ↑ Kukuxumusu, Spanish News. "Alberto Iñurrategi achieves his fourteenth "eight thousand meters"". http://www.kukuxumusu.com/web/news_nove1.php?id=36&lang=eng.
51. ↑ "Best of ExplorersWeb 2005 Awards: Ed Viesturs and Christian Kuntner". Mounteverest.net. http://www.mounteverest.net/news.php?id=1332. "...the American climber became one of only five men in the world to accomplish the quest entirely without supplementary oxygen."
52. ↑ Mounteverest.net. "The wolf is back: Gnaro bags Baruntse". http://www.mounteverest.net/news.php?id=17691. "Last year, Silvio 'Gnaro' Mondinelli broke the haunted 13 when he summited the last peak on his list of 14, 8000ers – becoming only the 6th mountaineer in the world to have bagged them all without supplementary oxygen."
53. ↑ "The day after: Silvio Mondinelli, Broad Peak and all 14 8000m summits". PlanetMountain.com. http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews.lasso?l=2&keyid=35710. "13/07 interview with Silvio Mondinelli after the summit of his 14th 8000m peak without supplementary oxygen."
54. ↑ "The 14th knight: Ecuadorian Ivan Vallejo is ready to continue". Mounteverest.net. http://www.k2climb.net/news.php?id=17248. "Implied in text: ...Following Italian Silvio "Gnaro" Mondinelli last year and American Ed Viesturs in 2005, Ivan also became only the seventh mountaineer in the world to have done them all without supplementary oxygen."
55. ↑ "The 14th knight: Ecuadorian Ivan Vallejo is ready to continue". Mounteverest.net. http://www.k2climb.net/news.php?id=17248. "...Ivan also became only the seventh mountaineer in the world to have done them all without supplementary oxygen."
56. ↑ "Denis Urubko, Cho Oyu and all 14 8000m peaks". PlanetMountain.com. http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=36767.
57. ↑ "Ralf Dujmovits". Ralf-dujmovits.de. http://www.ralf-dujmovits.de/biografie.php.
58. ↑ "GI summits - Veikka Gustafsson completes the 14x8000ers list!". Explorersweb.com. https://explorersweb.com/everest_k2/news.php?id=18539.
59. ↑ "Best of ExplorersWeb 2009 Awards: the 14x8000ers". Explorersweb.com. https://explorersweb.com/stats/news.php?id=18964.
60. ↑ "Summit 8000 – Andrew Lock's quest to climb all fourteen of the highest mountains in the world". Andrew-lock.com. http://www.andrew-lock.com/summit-8000.shtml.
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62. ↑ "Piotr Pustelnik summits Annapurna – bags the 14x8000ers!". Explorersweb.com. http://explorersweb.com/everest_k2/news.php?id=19295.
63. ↑ "Shisha Pangma: Edurne Pasaban summits – completes the 14x800ers". Explorersweb.com. http://explorersweb.com/everest_k2/news.php?id=19361.
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66. ↑ "Everest – Mount Everest by climbers, news". Mounteverest.net. 18 May 2005. http://www.mounteverest.net/story/ChristianKuntner-amountaineeringlegendisgoneMay182005.shtml.
67. ↑ "Mario Panzeri: sono in cima! E finalmente sono 14 ottomila". Montagna.tv. http://www.montagna.tv/cms/?p=40662.
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69. ↑ "Climbers – First 14". 8000ers.com. 13 August 2014. http://www.8000ers.com/cms/download.html?func=startdown&id=155.
70. ↑ 70.0 70.1 70.2 70.3 Nives Meroi and Romano Benet climbed all the Eight-thousanders together, it wasn't revealed if one of them climbed the last peak a few moments before the other, thus they share the same position
71. ↑ 71.0 71.1 "Nives Meroi and Romano Benet summit Annapurna, their 14th 8000er" (in en). PlanetMountain.com. http://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/alpinism/nives-meroi-and-romano-benet-summit-annapurna-their-14th-8000er.html.
72. ↑ 72.0 72.1 "Nives Meroi in Roman Benet preplezala 14 osemtisočakov" (in sl). Sta.si. https://www.sta.si/2385964/nives-meroi-in-roman-benet-preplezala-14-osemtisocakov.
73. ↑ "Slovenec s 15. osemtisočaka" (in sl). Delo.si. http://www.delo.si/zgodbe/nedeljskobranje/slovenec-s-15-osemtisocaka.html.
74. ↑ "Pokoril všetky osemtisícovky". skrsi.rtvs.sk. 16 May 2017. http://skrsi.rtvs.sk/clanky/spravy/133615/pokoril-vsetky-osemtisicovky.
75. ↑ "È vetta per Peter Hamor. Con il Dhaulagiri sono 14 anche per lui" (in it). www.montagna.tv. 15 May 2017. https://www.montagna.tv/108135/e-vetta-per-peter-hamor-con-il-dhaulagiri-sono-14-anche-per-lui/.
76. ↑ Tom Nicholson (4 June 1998). "HZDS flag flies from Everest summit". spectator.sme.sk. https://spectator.sme.sk/c/20013308/hzds-flag-flies-from-everest-summit.html.
77. ↑ "قیچی‌ساز حماسه ساز شد/کوهنورد تبریزی به هشت هزاری‌ها پیوست". yjc. 19 May 2017. http://www.yjc.ir/fa/news/6093547/قیچی‌ساز-حماسه-ساز-شدکوهنورد-تبریزی-به-هشت-هزاری‌ها-پیوست.
78. ↑ "Ferran Latorre completa los catorce ochomiles en el Everest" (in es). desnivel.com. 27 May 2017. http://desnivel.com/expediciones/ferran-latorre-completa-los-catorce-ochomiles-en-el-everest.
79. ↑ "Cadiach, camino del campo 3 tras coronar el Broad Peak" (in es). La Vanguardia. 27 July 2017. http://www.lavanguardia.com/deportes/otros-deportes/20170727/43126255449/alpinismo-oscar-cadiach-14-ochomiles-broad-peak.html.
80. ↑ "김미곤 히말라야 14봉 등정 보고회 열려" (in ko). Mountain Journal. 27 July 2018. http://www.mountainjournal.kr/news/articleView.html?idxno=183.
81. ↑ "South Korean Climbs Nanga Parbat, Completes 8,000ers". Gripped. 12 July 2018. https://gripped.com/news/south-korean-climbs-nanga-parbat-completes-8000ers/.
82. ↑ "Sanu Sherpa becomes third Nepali to complete 14 peaks as Sergi Mingote scales 7 mountains in 444 days". The Himalayan Times. 3 October 2019. https://thehimalayantimes.com/nepal/sanu-sherpa-becomes-third-nepali-to-complete-14-peaks-as-sergi-mingote-scales-7-mountains-in-444-days/.
83. ↑ Dream Wanderlust (May 24, 2019). "Nirmal Purja summits 5th eight-thousander in 12 days, ends 1st phase of 'Project Possible'". Dreamwanderlust.com.com. http://www.dreamwanderlust.com/news/nirmal-purja-summits-5th-eight-thousander-in-12-days-ends-1st-phase-of-project-possible.
84. ↑ "Reflections While Waiting for News from Shishapangma". Explorersweb.com. 29 October 2019. https://explorersweb.com/2019/10/29/reflections-while-waiting-for-news-from-shishapangma/.
85. ↑ "Nepalese Climber Summits World's 14 Highest Peaks in 6 Months, Smashing Record". https://www.npr.org/2019/10/29/774350376/nepalese-climber-summits-worlds-14-highest-peaks-in-6-months-smashing-record.
86. ↑ Munir Ahmed (20 July 2021). "South Korean missing after fall while scaling Pakistani peak". Times Union. https://www.timesunion.com/sports/article/South-Korean-missing-after-fall-while-scaling-16325874.php.
87. ↑ "Fingerless Korean goes missing after achieving the feat of climbing all 14 Himalayan peaks". The Korea Times. 20 July 2021. https://www.koreatimes.co.kr/www/sports/2021/07/600_312429.html.
88. ↑ Stefan Nestler (10 July 2019). "Kim Hong-bin: Without fingers on 13 eight-thousanders". Adventure Mountain. https://abenteuer-berg.de/en/kim-hong-bin-without-fingers-on-13-eight-thousanders/.
89. ↑ "Nima Gyalzen Sherpa becomes the 6th Nepali in the 14 Peaks club". everestchronicle.com. 11 August 2022. https://everestchronicle.com/nima-gyalzen-sherpa-becomes-the-6th-nepali-in-the-14-peaks-club/.
90. ↑ "Nima Gyalzen completes 14 peaks as Grace Tseng, Kristin Harila scale G-I". thehimalayantimes.com. 11 August 2022. https://thehimalayantimes.com/ampArticle/1014468.
91. ↑ Benavides, Angela (2023-04-26). "Dong Hong Juan Climbs Shishapangma; May Be the First Woman to Summit all 14 8,000'ers » Explorersweb". https://explorersweb.com/dong-hong-juan-shishapangma-first-woman/.
92. ↑ "China's Dong becomes first woman to conquer all 14 peaks above-8,000m" (in en). 2023-05-01. https://www.chinadaily.com.cn/a/202305/01/WS644fb676a310b6054fad0a6f.html.
93. ↑ "Kristin Harila scales Mount Shishapangma". everestchronicle.com. 26 April 2023. https://everestchronicle.com/kristin-harila-scales-mount-shishapangma/.
94. ↑ "Kristin Harila completes 14 peaks as she scales Cho Oyu" (in en). 2023-05-03. https://thehimalayantimes.com/nepal/kristin-harila-completes-14-peaks-as-she-scales-cho-oyu.
95. ↑ "Sophie Lavaud, first French mountaineer to climb all the peaks over 8,000 m on the planet – Liberation". Time News. 26 June 2023. https://time.news/sophie-lavaud-first-french-mountaineer-to-climb-all-the-peaks-over-8000-m-on-the-planet-liberation/.
96. ↑ "Sophie Lavaud becomes first French person to climb world's highest peaks". RFI. 26 June 2023. https://www.rfi.fr/en/international/20230626-sophie-lavaud-becomes-first-french-person-to-climb-world-s-highest-peaks.
97. ↑ 97.0 97.1 Benavides, Angela (2023-06-26). "Nanga Parbat Summits » Explorersweb". https://explorersweb.com/nanga-parbat-summits/.
98. ↑ 98.0 98.1 "A 17-year-old Nepali teenager scales the ‘Killer Mountain’". 2023-06-26. https://everestchronicle.com/a-17-year-old-nepali-teenager-scales-the-killer-mountain/.
99. ↑ "Seven Summit Treks Tenjen Sherpa (Lama)". https://www.sevensummittreks.com/team/field-staffs/tenjen-sherpa-lama/.
100. ↑ Gopal Sharma (2023-07-27). "Norwegian woman, Nepali sherpa become world's fastest to climb all 14 tallest peaks" (in en). https://www.reuters.com/world/norwegian-woman-nepali-sherpa-become-worlds-fastest-climb-all-14-tallest-peaks-2023-07-27/.
101. ↑ 101.0 101.1 Dream Wanderlust (30 March 2021). "After K2 in Winter, Gelje Sherpa (28) aims to become the youngest to climb all 14 8Ks". DreamWanderlust.com. https://www.dreamwanderlust.com/news/after-k2-in-winter-gelje-sherpa-aims-to-become-the-youngest-to-climb-all-14-8ks.
102. ↑ "Gelje Sherpa joins the 14 peak club with summit on Cho Oyu; Nima Rinji sets youngest climber record". everestchronicle.com. 6 October 2023. https://everestchronicle.com/gelje-sherpa-joins-the-14-peak-club/.
103. ↑ "Nepali and Pakistani Climbers Make History on Cho Oyu". whatthenepal.com. 6 October 2023. https://whatthenepal.com/2023/10/06/nepali-and-pakistani-climbers-make-history-on-cho-oyu/.
104. ↑ "AdventureStats – by Explorersweb". http://www.adventurestats.com/tables/10-13_8000er.shtml.
105. ↑ Russianclimb.com, Mountaineering World of Russia & CIS. "Vladislav Terzyul, List of ascents". http://www.russianclimb.com/persons/terzyul.html.
106. ↑ "Sad results on Makalu and Unanswered Questions: 1 missing climber and 1 passed away on Makalu". Everestnews2004.com. http://www.everestnews2004.com/everestnews4/missingonmaklau2004.htm.
107. ↑ "Everest K2 News ExplorersWeb – More dark clouds mounting on Anna summit push; Miss Oh's Kanchen summit "disputed" after renewed accusations". Explorersweb.com. 26 April 2010. http://explorersweb.com/everest_k2/news.php?id=19284.
108. ↑ 108.0 108.1 "New doubts over Korean Oh Eun-Sun's climbing record, Hawley to investigate". BBC News. 27 August 2010. https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/world-south-asia-10266282.
109. ↑ What would appear to be the most serious blow to Miss Oh, on 26 August this year the Korean Alpine Federation, the nation's largest climbing association, concluded that Miss Oh had not reached the top of Kangchenjunga."Seasonal Stories for the Nepalese Himalaya 1985–2014". Elizabeth Hawley. 2014. p. 394. http://www.himalayandatabase.com/downloads/EAH Seasonal Stories.pdf.
110. ↑ "Desnivel; Carlos Pauner consigue la cima del Everest". Desnivel.com. http://desnivel.com/expediciones/carlos-pauner-consigue-la-cima-del-everest.
111. ↑ "Carlos Pauner is not sure if they hit the top of the Shisha Pangma (8,027)". lainformacion.com. 18 February 2016. https://www.lainformacion.com/deporte/alpinismo-montanismo/carlos-pauner-no-tiene-claro-si-hollaron-la-cima-del-shisha-pangma-8-027_RtasCrUfYbQZ3CoKnrTlJ3/.
112. ↑ "CCTV; 罗静等23名中国登山者登顶希夏邦马峰". CCTV. 29 September 2018. http://sports.cctv.com/2018/09/29/ARTI8SX3cn1pzRqEScSdzaSU180929.shtml.
113. ↑ "The Himalayan Times; Four Chinese climbers complete all 14 peaks above 8,000m this autumn". The Himalayan Times. 29 September 2018. https://thehimalayantimes.com/nepal/four-chinese-climbers-complete-all-14-above-8000-metre-peaks-this-autumn/.
114. ↑ "Luo Jing no alcanzó la cima principal del Shisha Pangma" (in es). Desnivel.com. 4 October 2018. https://www.desnivel.com/expediciones/luo-jing-cuarta-mujer-con-los-14x8000-y-en-tiempo-record/.
115. ↑ I have summited Cho Oyu 4 times and will be heading for my fifth this coming season. Each time I have watched the Koreans and Japanese go only to where they can see Everest, not the summit because they know this is what will be asked."Cho Oyu summit: Where is it exactly". Explorersweb.com. September 2017. https://explorersweb.com/2017/05/09/cho-oyu-summit-where-is-it-exactly-2017-05-09-60289/.
116. ↑ Many people who climb Cho Oyu in Tibet stop at a set of prayer flags with views of Everest and believe they’ve reached the top, unaware they still have to walk for 15 minutes across the summit plateau until they can see the Gokyo Lakes in Nepal."When is a summit not a summit?". Mark Horrell. 12 November 2014. http://www.markhorrell.com/blog/2014/when-is-a-summit-not-a-summit/.
117. ↑ "Asia, Tibet, Cho Oyu and Shisha Pangma Central (West) Summit". American Alpine Journal. 1991. http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199129002/Asia-Tibet-Cho-Oyu-and-Shisha-Pangma-Central-West-Summit.
118. ↑ Keeper of the Mountains: The Elizabeth Hawley Story. Rocky Mountain Books. 5 October 2012. pp. 185–195. ISBN 978-1927330159.
119. ↑ Richard Gray (23 August 2013). "The new peaks opened as alternatives to Mount Everest". The Daily Telegraph. https://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/worldnews/asia/mounteverest/10260776/The-new-peaks-opened-as-alternatives-to-Mount-Everest.html. "Nepal"
120. ↑ 120.0 120.1 120.2 Navin Singh Khadka (18 October 2013). "Nepal mountain peak expansion bid stalls". BBC News. https://www.bbc.com/news/science-environment-24571309.
121. ↑ 121.0 121.1 "Do we really need more 8000m peaks". Mark Horrell. 23 October 2013. https://www.markhorrell.com/blog/2013/do-we-really-need-more-8000m-peaks/. "The most prominent one, Broad Peak Central is just 196m high and the least prominent, Lhotse Middle, is a meagre 60m. To put this in context, the highest mountain in Malta is 253m, while the Eiffel Tower stands a whopping 300m."
122. ↑ "A funny name for a mountain". Mark Horrell. 4 June 2014. http://www.markhorrell.com/blog/2014/a-funny-name-for-a-mountain/.
123. ↑ "UIAA Mountain Classification: 4,000ERS OF THE ALPS". UIAA. March 1994. https://www.theuiaa.org/mountaineering/mountain-classification/. "Topographic criterium: for each summit, the level difference between it and the highest adjacent pass or notch should be at least 30 m (98 ft) (calculated as average of the summits at the limit of acceptability). An additional criterium can be the horizontal distance between a summit and the base of another adjacent 4000er."
124. ↑ 124.0 124.1 Eberhard Jurgalski. "Dominance". 8000ers.com. http://www.8000ers.com/cms/en/dominance-mainmenu-178.html. "Accordingly, the author introduced altitude classes (AC) and a proportional prominence, which he named orometrical dominance (D). D is calculated easily but fittingly: (P/Alt) x 100. Thus, it indicates the percentage of independence for every elevation, no matter what the altitude, prominence or mountain type it is. From a scientific point of view, altitude could be seen as the thesis, prominence as the antithesis, whereas dominance would be the synthesis."

## External links

* 8000ers.com, a site dedicated to statistics on 8000m peaks and climbs
* PeakBagger.com World 8000-meter Peaks, a database of global peaks
* The Himalayan Database, statistics on Nepalese Himalayan (but not Pakistan Himalaya) climbs from 1905 to 2018
* Graphical Interface for The Himalayan Database
* AdventureStats.com (High Altitude Mountaineering), a site dedicated to recording adventure statistics
* NASA Earth Observatory: The Eight-Thousanders
* Eight Thousanders Tracking Expeditons On Line from Alpinismonline Magazine

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