Draper

Draper was originally a term for a retailer or wholesaler of cloth that was mainly for clothing. A draper may additionally operate as a cloth merchant or a haberdasher.

## Contents

* 1 History
* 2 Historical drapers
* 3 Current usage
* 4 See also
* 5 References
* 6 Further reading

## History

Drapers were an important trade guild during the medieval period, when the sellers of cloth operated out of drapers' shops.[1] However the original meaning of the term has now largely fallen out of use.

In 1724, Jonathan Swift wrote a series of satirical pamphlets in the guise of a draper called the Drapier's Letters.

## Historical drapers

A replica draper's shop at the Museum of Lincolnshire Life, Lincoln, England

A number of notable people who have at one time or another worked as drapers include:

* Sir Thomas Adams, 1st Baronet (1586–1667/1668), Lord Mayor of the City of London
* William Barley (1565?–1614), bookseller and publisher
* Norman Birkett
* Margaret Bondfield (1873–1953), Britain's first female cabinet minister who, at the age of 14, began an apprenticeship at a draper's shop in Hove, near Brighton[2]
* Thomas Burberry, founder of fashion brand "Burberry"
* Eleanor Coade (1733–1821), successful businesswoman with Coade stone, who ran her own business as a linen draper in the City of London[3]
* John Graunt (1620–1674), founder of the science of demography, became a freeman of the Drapers' Company at the age of 21 and worked in his father's drapery shop until his father died in 1662
* Antonie van Leeuwenhoek
* John Spedan Lewis (1885–1963), founder of the John Lewis Partnership
* William McGregor (1846–1911), chairman of Aston Villa Football Club and founder of the Football League
* Anthony Munday) (1560?–1633), playwright
* Hector MacDonald, was a draper's apprentice until at 18 he joined the army.
* Harry S. Truman, haberdasher before he became a Senator, Vice President and President of the United States
* H. G. Wells and his fictional characters Kipps and Mr Polly were draper's assistants[4]
* Edward Whalley, regicide, cousin of Oliver Cromwell
* George Williams, founder of the YMCA[5]
* John Woodward (1665–1728), geologist and physician to King Charles II. At the age of 16 he went to London to be apprenticed to a linen draper.

## Current usage

A draper is now defined as a highly skilled role within the fashion industry. The term is used within a fashion design or costume design studio for people tasked with creating garments or patterns by draping fabric over a dress form; draping uses a human form to physically position the cloth into a desired pattern. This is an alternative method to drafting, when the garment is initially worked out from measurements on paper.

A fashion draper may also be known as a "first hand" because they are often the most skilled creator in the workshop and the "first" to work with the cloth for a garment. However a first hand in a costume studio is often an assistant to the draper. They are responsible for cutting the fabric with the patterns and assisting in costume fittings.

## See also

* Draper – a surname taken from the occupation
* Don Draper, fictional star of the series Mad Men
* Drapery
* Kraków Cloth Hall – Renaissance landmark of Kraków, Poland
* Millinery
* Worshipful Company of Drapers, the London guild

## References

1. ↑ Toplis, Alison (2015). The Clothing Trade in Provincial England, 1800-1850. Routledge. p. 85. ISBN 978-1-317-32305-1.
2. ↑ "Hove blue plaque call for 1920s MP Margaret Bondfield". BBC News Sussex. June 1, 2014. https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-england-sussex-27654880.
3. ↑ Phillips, Nicola (May 2009). "Eleanor Coade". http://www2.addidi.com/awards/2009/profile_ec.asp.
4. ↑ Wynne, Deborah (May 2015). "The ‘Despised Trade’ in Textiles: H. G. Wells, William Paine, Charles Cavers and the Male Draper’s Life, 1870–1914". Textile History 46 (1): 99–113. doi:10.1179/0040496915Z.00000000059.
5. ↑ "My Dear Home, I Love You, You're a House for Each of Us and Home for All of Us". 1918. http://www.wdl.org/en/item/360/.

## Further reading

* Hansen, Viveka (December 12, 2017). "The Clothing and Fabric Trade in London from 1780 to 1914". https://www.ikfoundation.org/itextilis/the-clothing-and-fabric-trade.html.

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Sewing

Techniques|

* Basting
* Cut
* Darning
* Ease
* Embellishment
* Fabric tube turning
* Floating canvas
* Gather
* Godet
* Gusset
* Heirloom sewing
* Shirring

Stitches|

* List of sewing stitches
* Backstitch
* Bar tack
* Blanket
* Blind stitch
* Buttonhole
* Catch stitch
* Chain stitch
* Cross-stitch
* Embroidery stitch
* Hemstitch
* Lockstitch
* Overlock
* Pad stitch
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* Tack
* Topstitch
* Zigzag

Seams|

* Neckline
* Felled seam
* Seam allowance
* Style line

* Notions
* Trim

* Bias tape
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* Elastic
* Galloon
* Grommet / Eyelet
* Interfacing
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Closures|

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Materials|

* Grain / Bias
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* Textile / Fabric
* Thread
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Tools|

* Bobbin
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* Scissors
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* Sewing gauge
* Sewing needle
* Stitching awl
* Tailor's ham
* Tape measure
* Thimble
* Tracing paper
* Tracing wheel

* Trades
* Suppliers

* Cloth merchant
* Draper
* Dressmaker
* Haberdasher
* Mercer
* Sewing occupations
* Tailor

Sewing machine
manufacturers

* List of sewing machine brands and companies
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* Janome
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* Juki
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* Singer
* Tape edge machine
* Viking / Husqvarna
* White

Pattern manufacturers|

* Butterick
* Burda
* Clothkits
* McCall's
* Simplicity

* Media related to Sewing at Wikimedia Commons
*   * Glossary of terms

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