Anglo-Indian cuisine

Cuisine originated in the British Raj

British cuisine

National cuisines

* English
* Scottish
* Welsh
* Northern Irish

Regional cuisines

* Carmarthenshire
* Monmouthshire
* Gower
* Pembrokeshire
* Ceredigion
* Cornwall
* Channel Islands

Overseas/Fusion cuisine

* Anglo-Indian
* Anguillian
* Balti curries
* Bermudian
* British Chinese cuisine
* British Virgin Islands
* Cayman Islands
* Falkland Islands
* Gibraltarian
* Montserrat
* Saint Helena
* Hong Kong
* Pitcairn Islands
* Turks and Caicos Islands

People

* British chefs

United Kingdom portal

Food portal

* v
* t
* e

This article is part of the series on

Indian cuisine

Regional cuisines

North India

* Awadhi
* Braj
* Haryana
* Kashmiri
* Kumauni
* Mughlai
* Punjabi
* Rajasthani
* Uttar Pradeshi

South India

* Chettinad
* Hyderabadi
* Karnataka
* Kerala
* Mangalorean
* Mangalorean Catholic
* Saraswat
* Tamil
* Telangana
* Telugu
* Udupi

East India

* Bengali
* Bhojpuri
* Bihari
* Jharkhandi
* Odia
* Maithil
* Angika

West India

* Goan
* Gujarati
* Malvani & Konkani
* Marathi
* Parsi
* Sindhi

Northeast India

* Arunachalese
* Assamese
* Meghalayan
* Manipuri
* Mizoram
* Naga
* Sikkimese
* Tripuri

Other

* Anglo-Indian
* Fast food
* Indo-Chinese
* Jain (Satvika)
* Nepali

Ingredients, types of food

* Main dishes
* Soups and stews
* Desserts
* Bread
* Drinks
* Snack foods
* Spices
* Condiments

Preparation, cooking

* Handi
* Karahi
* Tava
* Tandoor
* Uruli
* Other

See also

* History
* Etiquette
* Indian chefs
* Cookbook: Cuisine of India

Related cuisines

* Nepalese cuisine
* Sri Lankan cuisine
* Bangladeshi cuisine
* Pakistani cuisine
* Bhutanese cuisine
* Tibetan cuisine
* Afghani cuisine

* India portal
* Food portal

* v
* t
* e

Anglo-Indian cuisine is the cuisine that developed during the British Raj in India.[1] The cuisine introduced dishes such as curry, chutney, kedgeree, mulligatawny and pish pash to English palates.

Anglo-Indian cuisine was documented in detail by the English colonel Arthur Robert Kenney-Herbert, writing as "Wyvern" in 1885 to advise the British Raj's memsahibs what to instruct their Indian cooks to make.[1][2] Many of its usages are described in the "wonderful"[1] 1886 Anglo-Indian dictionary, Hobson-Jobson.[1] More recently, the cuisine has been analysed by Jennifer Brennan in 1990 and David Burton in 1993.[1][3][4][5]

## History

[edit]

Anglo-Indian cooks created what they called curry by selecting elements of Indian dishes from all over British India. Lizzie Collingham describes their taste as "eclectic", "pan-Indian", "lacking sophistication", embodying a "passion for garnishes", and forming a "coherent repertoire"; but it was eaten only by the British. Among their creations were Curry powder, Kedgeree, Madras curry, and Mulligatawny curry soup, accompanied by Bombay duck, chutneys, pickles, and poppadoms.[6]

During the British rule in India, cooks began adapting Indian dishes for British palates and creating Anglo-Indian cuisine, with dishes such as kedgeree (1790)[7] and mulligatawny soup (1791).[8][9] The first Indian restaurant in England, the Hindoostane Coffee House, opened in 1809[10] in London; as described in The Epicure's Almanack in 1815, "All the dishes were dressed with curry powder, rice, Cayenne, and the best spices of Arabia. A room was set apart for smoking hookahs with oriental herbs".[11] Indian food was cooked at home from a similar date as cookbooks of the time, including the 1758 edition of Hannah Glasse's The Art of Cookery, attest.[12]

The British East India Company arrived in India in 1600,[13] developing into a large and established organisation.[14] By 1760, men were returning home from India with money and a taste for Indian food.[15] In 1784, a listing in the Morning Herald and Daily Advertiser promoted ready-mix curry powder to be used in Indian-style dishes.[16] While no dish called "curry" existed in India in the 18th and 19th centuries, Anglo-Indians likely coined the term, derived from the Tamil word "kari" meaning a spiced sauce poured over rice, to denote any Indian dish.[16] Storytelling may have allowed family members at home to learn about Indian food.[17]

Hannah Glasse's receipt To make a Currey the Indian Way, on page 101 of the 1758 edition of The Art of Cookery Made Plain and Easy

Many cookbooks including Indian-style dishes were written and published by British women in the late 18th century,[17] such as Hannah Glasse's 1758 book The Art of Cookery Made Plain and Easy, which included the recipe "To make a Currey the Indian Way".[18]

As Indian cuisine grew in popularity in Britain, the desire for authentic Indian delicacies grew. In March 1811, the Hindoostane Coffee House opened in Portman Square offering Indian ambience and curries as well as hookah smoking rooms.[19] The founder, Sake Dean Mohomed, stated that the ingredients for the curries as well as the herbs for smoking were authentically Indian.[20]

## Dishes

[edit]

Further information: English cuisine § Indian and Anglo-Indian cuisine, and List of chutneys

Well-known Anglo-Indian dishes include chutneys, salted beef tongue, kedgeree,[21] ball curry, fish rissoles, and mulligatawny soup.[1][8] Chutney, one of the few Indian dishes that has had a lasting influence on English cuisine according to the Oxford Companion to Food,[1] is a cooked and sweetened condiment of fruit, nuts or vegetables. It borrows from a tradition of jam making where an equal amount of sour fruit and refined sugar reacts with the pectin in the fruit such as sour apples or rhubarb, the sour note being provided by vinegar. Major Grey's Chutney is typical.[22]

Pish pash was defined by Hobson-Jobson as "a slop of rice-soup with small pieces of meat in it, much used in the Anglo-Indian nursery". The term was first recorded by Augustus Prinsep in the mid 19th century.[23] The name comes from the Persian pash-pash, from pashidan, to break.[24] A version of the dish is given in The Cookery Book of Lady Clark of Tillypronie of 1909.[1]

## Restaurants

[edit]

Further information: English cuisine § Indian and Anglo-Indian cuisine

Some early restaurants in England, such as the Hindoostane Coffee House on George Street, London, which opened in 1810, served Anglo-Indian food. Many Indian restaurants, however, have reverted to the standard mix-and-match Indian dishes that are better known to the British public.

## References

[edit]

1. ^ a b c d e f g h Davidson, Alan (2014). Tom Jaine (ed.). The Oxford Companion to Food (3rd ed.). Oxford: Oxford University Press. pp. 21–22\. ISBN 978-0-19-967733-7.21-22&rft.edition=3rd&rft.pub=Oxford+University+Press&rft.date=2014&rft.isbn=978-0-19-967733-7&rft.aulast=Davidson&rft.aufirst=Alan&rfr_id=info:sid/en.wikipedia.org:Anglo-Indian+cuisine" class="Z3988">
2. ^ Kenney-Herbert, Arthur Robert (1994) [1885]. Culinary Jottings for Madras, Or, A Treatise in Thirty Chapters on Reformed Cookery for Anglo-Indian Exiles (Facsimile of 5th ed.). Prospect Books. ISBN 0-907325-55-6.
3. ^ Brennan, Jennifer (1990). Encyclopaedia of Chinese and Oriental Cookery. Black Cat.
4. ^ Brennan, Jennifer (1990). Curries and Bugles, A Memoir and Cookbook of the British Raj. Viking. ISBN 962-593-818-4.
5. ^ Burton, David (1993). The Raj at Table. Faber & Faber.
6. ^ Collingham 2007, pp. 118–125, 140.
7. ^ "Sustainable shore - October recipe - Year of Food and Drink 2015 - National Library of Scotland". nls.uk.
8. ^ a b Roy, Modhumita (7 August 2010). "Some Like It Hot: Class, Gender and Empire in the Making of Mulligatawny Soup". Economic and Political Weekly. 45 (32): 66–75\. JSTOR 20764390.66-75&rft.date=2010-08-07&rft_id=https://www.jstor.org/stable/20764390#id-name=JSTOR&rft.aulast=Roy&rft.aufirst=Modhumita&rfr_id=info:sid/en.wikipedia.org:Anglo-Indian+cuisine" class="Z3988">
9. ^ "Cooking under the Raj". Retrieved 30 January 2008.
10. ^ Jahangir, Rumeana (26 November 2009). "How Britain got the hots for curry". British Broadcasting Corporation. Retrieved 27 September 2016. ""Indian dishes, in the highest perfection… unequalled to any curries ever made in England." So ran the 1809 newspaper advert for a new eating establishment in an upmarket London square popular with colonial returnees."
11. ^ The Epicure's Almanack, Longmans, 1815, pages 123-124.
12. ^ Dickson Wright, Clarissa (2011). A History of English Food. Random House. pp. 304–305\. ISBN 978-1-905-21185-2.304-305&rft.pub=Random+House&rft.date=2011&rft.isbn=978-1-905-21185-2&rft.aulast=Dickson+Wright&rft.aufirst=Clarissa&rfr_id=info:sid/en.wikipedia.org:Anglo-Indian+cuisine" class="Z3988">
13. ^ Metcalf 2014, p. 44.
14. ^ Metcalf 2014, p. 56.
15. ^ Rees, Lowri Ann (1 March 2017). "Welsh Sojourners in India: The East India Company, Networks and Patronages, 1760-1840". (The Journal of Imperial and Commonwealth History. 45 (2): 166. doi:10.1080/03086534.2017.1294242. S2CID 159799417. Retrieved 8 November 2023.
16. ^ a b Maroney, Stephanie (23 February 2011). "'To Make a Curry the India Way': Tracking the Meaning of Curry across Eighteenth-Century Communities". Food and Foodways. 19: 129. doi:10.1080/07409710.2011.544208. S2CID 146364557.
17. ^ a b Bullock, April (2012). "The Cosmopolitan Cookbook". Food, Culture & Society. 15 (3): 439. doi:10.2752/175174412X13276629245966. S2CID 142731887.
18. ^ Glasse, Hannah (1758) [1747]. The Art of Cookery made Plain and Easy. Edinburgh. p. 101.
19. ^ Collingham 2007, p. 129.
20. ^ Collingham 2007, p. 2.
21. ^ "Sustainable shore - October recipe - Year of Food and Drink 2015 - National Library of Scotland". nls.uk.
22. ^ Bateman, Michael (17 August 1996). "Chutneys for Relishing". The Independent. Archived from the original on 7 May 2022. Retrieved 26 September 2016.
23. ^ "pish-pash". Oxford Dictionaries. Archived from the original on 2 February 2017. Retrieved 22 January 2017.
24. ^ Davidson, Alan (2014). The Oxford Companion to Food. Oxford University Press. p. 22\. ISBN 978-0-19-967733-7.

## Sources

[edit]

* Collingham, Lizzie (2007). Curry: A tale of cooks and conquerors. Chapter 1: Chicken Tikka Masala: The Quest for an Authentic Indian Meal, Chapter 6: Curry Powder: Bringing India to Britain: Oxford University press. p. 129.`{{cite book}}`: CS1 maint: location (link)
* Metcalf, Barbara (2014). A Concise History of Modern India. Cambridge University Press. doi:10.1017/CBO9781139207805. ISBN 9781139207805.

## Further reading

[edit]

* Patricia Brown (24 February 1998). Anglo-Indian Food and Custom. Penguin Books India. ISBN 0-14-027137-6.
* Henrietta Hervey (2006) [1895]. A Curry Book (Anglo-Indian Cookery at Home). Ludlow: Excellent Press. ISBN 978-1-900318-33-4.
* Pat Chapman (1997). Taste of the Raj. London: Hodder & Stoughton. ISBN 0-340-68035-0.

## External links

[edit]

* "Food Stories" Archived 10 April 2021 at the Wayback Machine — Explore a century of revolutionary change in UK food culture on the British Library's Food Stories website
* "How Britain got the hots for curry". BBC News Magazine. 26 November 2009. Retrieved 15 August 2014.
* "Fears for the decline of Anglo-Indian cooking". BBC News Online. 7 February 2011. Retrieved 15 August 2014.
* "Indian Food" — Authentic Indian Cuisine in the UK.

* v
* t
* e

Cuisines

Continental|

| African|

* North
* West
* list

|

Americas|

* Caribbean
* North
* South
* list

Asian|

* Caucasian
* Central
* Levantine
* South
* list

European|

* Balkan
* Central
* Eastern
* list

Oceanian|

* Australian
* New Zealander

Intercontinental|

* Global
* Latin American
* Mediterranean
* Middle Eastern

National and
regional|

* Afghan
* Albanian
* Algerian
* American
* Californian
* Floribbean
* Hawaiian
* Lowcountry (South Carolina)
* Midwestern US
* New English
* New Mexican
* Pacific Northwestern
* Puerto Rican
* Southern US
* Southwestern US
* Texan
* Angolan
* Argentine
* Armenian
* Australian
* Austrian
* Azerbaijani
* Bahraini
* Bangladeshi
* Barbadian
* Belarusian
* Belgian
* Belizean
* Beninese
* Bhutanese
* Bolivian
* Bosnian-Herzegovinian
* Botswana
* Brazilian
* British
* Anguillia
* Channel Islands
* English
* Gibraltarian
* Northern Irish
* Saint Helena
* Scottish
* Welsh
* Bruneian
* Bulgarian
* Burkinabé
* Burmese
* Burundian
* Cambodian
* Cameroonian
* Canadian
* Acadian
* Québécois
* Central African Republic
* Chadian
* Chilean
* Chinese
* Beijing
* Cantonese
* Hong Kong
* Macanese
* Shandong
* Sichuan
* Tibetan
* Xinjiang
* Colombian
* Congolese
* Croatian
* Cuban
* Cypriot
* Czech
* Danish
* Faroese
* Greenlandic
* Djiboutian
* Dominican
* Dominican Republic
* Dutch
* East Timorese
* Ecuadorian
* Egyptian
* Emirati
* Equatorial Guinean
* Eritrean
* Estonian
* Ethiopian
* Fijian
* Filipino
* Kapampangan
* Finnish
* French
* Corsican
* La Réunion
* French Guianan
* Occitan
* Gabonese
* Gambian
* Georgian
* German
* Ghanaian
* Greek
* Cretan
* Epirotic
* Greek Macedonian
* Heptanesean
* Guatemalan
* Guinea-Bissauan
* Guinean
* Haitian
* Honduran
* Hungarian
* Icelandic
* Indian
* Andhra
* Arunachali
* Assamese
* Bengali
* Bihari
* Chhattisgarhi
* Goan
* Gujarati
* Haryanvi
* Kashmiri
* Jharkhandi
* Karnataka
* Kerala
* Maharashtrian
* Manipuri
* Meghalayan
* Mizo
* Naga
* Odia
* Punjabi
* Rajasthani
* Sikkimese
* Sindhi
* Tamil
* Telangana
* Tripuri
* Uttar Pradesh
* Uttarakhandi
* Indonesian
* Acehnese
* Balinese
* Banjar
* Batak
* Betawi
* Gorontalese
* Indo
* Javanese
* Madurese
* Makassar
* Minahasan
* Minangkabau
* Palembangese
* Sundanese
* Iranian
* Iraqi
* Irish
* Israeli
* Italian
* Abruzzese
* Apulian
* Emilian
* Ligurian
* Lombard
* Lucanian
* Neapolitan
* Piedmontese
* Roman
* Sardinian
* Sicilian
* Tuscan
* Venetian
* Ivorian
* Jamaican
* Japanese
* Okinawan
* Jordanian
* Kazakh
* Kenyan
* Korean
* North Korean
* South Korean
* Kosovan
* Kuwaiti
* Kyrgyz
* Lao
* Latvian
* Lebanese
* Lesotho
* Liberian
* Libyan
* Liechtensteiner
* Lithuanian
* Luxembourgish
* Macedonian
* Malagasy
* Malawian
* Malaysian
* Sabahan
* Sarawakian
* Maldivian
* Malian
* Maltese
* Marshallese
* Mauritanian
* Mauritian
* Mexican
* Moldovan
* Monégasque
* Mongolian
* Montenegrin
* Moroccan
* Mozambican
* Namibian
* Nauruan
* Nepalese
* New Zealand
* Nicaraguan
* Niger
* Nigerian
* Niuean
* Norwegian
* Omani
* Pakistani
* Palestinian
* Panamanian
* Papua New Guinean
* Paraguayan
* Peruvian
* Polish
* Portuguese
* Qatari
* Romanian
* Russian
* Bashkir
* Chechen
* Circassian
* Cossack
* Komi
* Mordovian
* Sakha
* Tatar
* Udmurt
* Yamal
* Rwandan
* Saint Lucian
* Salvadoran
* Sammarinese
* São Tomé and Príncipe
* Saudi Arabian
* Senegalese
* Serbian
* Seychellois
* Sierra Leonean
* Singaporean
* Slovak
* Slovenian
* Somali
* South African
* Spanish
* Andalusian
* Asturian
* Balearic
* Basque
* Canarian
* Cantabrian
* Catalan
* Extremaduran
* Galician
* Manchegan
* Valencian
* Sri Lankan
* Sudanese
* Swazi
* Swedish
* Swiss
* Syrian
* Taiwanese
* Tajik
* Tanzanian
* Zanzibari
* Thai
* Togolese
* Tunisian
* Turkish
* Turkmen
* Tuvaluan
* Trinidadian and Tobagonian
* Ugandan
* Ukrainian
* Uruguayan
* Uzbek
* Vanuatuan
* Venezuelan
* Vietnamese
* Western Saharan
* Yemeni
* Zambian
* Zimbabwean

Ethnic|

* African American
* Ainu
* Arab
* Arab-Indonesian
* Aromanian
* Assyrian
* Balochi
* Berber
* Buryat
* Cajun
* Chinese
* American
* Australian
* British
* Cambodian
* Canadian
* Filipino
* Indian
* Indonesian
* Malaysian
* Pakistani
* Peruvian
* Crimean Tatar
* Gagauz
* Greek-American
* Hazaragi
* Hmong
* Indian
* English
* Indonesian
* Malaysian
* North Indian
* South Indian
* Indigenous American
* Indigenous Australian
* Inuit
* Italian American
* Jewish
* American
* Ashkenazi
* Bukharan
* Ethiopian
* Mizrahi
* Moroccan
* Sephardic
* Syrian
* Kurdish
* Livonian
* Louisiana Creole
* Malay
* Ossetian
* Parsi
* Pashtun
* Pennsylvania Dutch
* Peranakan
* Pontic Greek
* Romani
* Sámi
* Tejano
* Transylvanian Saxon
* Yup'ik

Religious|

* Buddhist
* Christian
* Goan Catholic
* Mangalorean Catholic
* Mennonite
* Hindu
* Islamic
* Chinese
* Ital
* Jain
* Kashrut
* Kosher food
* Ritual slaughter
* Sikh

Historical|

* Ancient Egyptian
* Ancient Greek
* Ancient Israelite
* Ancient Roman
* Antebellum America
* Aztec
* Byzantine
* Early modern European
* Historical Argentine
* Historical Chinese
* Historical Indian subcontinent
* Historical Japanese
* Historical North Indian and Pakistani
* History of agriculture
* History of alcoholic drinks
* History of bread
* History of seafood
* History of vegetarianism
* Hittite
* Inca
* Mayan
* Muisca
* Mughal
* Medieval
* Ottoman
* Peasant
* Pre-contact Hawaiian
* Korean royal court
* Scottish royal household
* Soviet
* Thirteen Colonies

Styles|

* Classique
* Fast food
* Fusion
* New American
* Eurasian
* Haute
* Molecular gastronomy
* Note by Note
* Nouvelle
* Vegetarian

Lists|

* List of cuisines
* List of historical cuisines
* Lists of foods
* Prepared

Related|

* Cookbook
* Cooking
* Culinary arts
* Drink
* Food
* history
* sociology
* Diet
* Fat
* Meal
* Meal preparation

* Category
* Outline

* "Best Indian Restaurant in London" — Have a look to the best Indian food restaurants in London to the History_of_Indian_cuisine's Holy Cow website

*[v]: View this template
*[t]: Discuss this template
*[e]: Edit this template