Berneray, North Uist

Island in the Sound of Harris, Outer Hebrides, Scotland

For other places with the same name, see Berneray (disambiguation).

BernerayScottish Gaelic name| Beàrnaraigh

|

Meaning of name| From Old Norse Bjorn's island
Location

Berneray

Berneray shown within the Outer Hebrides

OS grid reference| NF912817
Coordinates| 57°43′N 7°11′W﻿ / ﻿57.72°N 7.19°W﻿ / 57.72; -7.19
Physical geography
Island group| Uist and Barra
Area| 1,010 ha (2,496 acres)
Area rank| 50 [1]
Highest elevation| Beinn Shlèibhe, 93 m (305 ft)
Administration
Council area| Outer Hebrides
Country| Scotland
Sovereign state| United Kingdom
Demographics
Population| 142[2]
Population rank| 41 [1]
Population density| 14/km2 (36/sq mi)[2][3]
Largest settlement| Borve and Rushgarry
References| [3][4][5]

Berneray (Scottish Gaelic: Beàrnaraigh na Hearadh) is an island and community in the Sound of Harris, Scotland. It is one of fifteen inhabited islands in the Outer Hebrides. It is famed for its rich and colourful history which has attracted much tourism. It lies within the South Lewis, Harris and North Uist National Scenic Area,[6] one of 40 such areas in Scotland which are defined so as to identify areas of exceptional scenery and to ensure its protection from inappropriate development.[7]

With an area of 10.1 square kilometres (2,500 acres), Berneray rises to a height of 305 feet (93 m) at Beinn Shlèibhe (Moor Hill) and 278 feet (85 m) at Cnoc Bhuirgh (Borve Hill). It is known for its sandy beaches backed with sand dunes. Tràigh Iar (West Beach), a three-mile stretch of wide, clean and often deserted sand, is widely acclaimed.[8]

There is strong evidence that points to Berneray being inhabited since the Bronze Age, and possibly before. The island is scattered with ancient sacred sites, stone circles, signs of Viking inhabitation and historical buildings, some several centuries old.

Although Berneray is geographically closer to North Uist, it is part of the Bays of Harris Estate and under the Parish of Harris.

## Etymology

[edit]

The name "Berneray" is from the Old Norse Bjarnar-øy and means either "Bjorn's island" or possibly "bear island".[3] This island is known by Gaelic speakers as Beàrnaraigh na Hearadh, meaning "Berneray of Harris" to distinguish it from Beàrnaraigh Cheann Bharraigh, literally "Berneray of Barra Head", now usually known in English simply as Barra Head and Beàrnaraigh Leòdhais, known as Great Bernera. More recently Gaelic speakers have also used Beàrnaraigh Uibhist, i.e. "Berneray of Uist" to refer to the northern Berneray.[5]

## Demographics

[edit]

A fishing boat passes between the west beach of Berneray and the island of Pabbay

In common with most islands in the Outer Hebrides, the population declined during the 19th and 20th centuries. However, the past few years has seen a stabilisation. The island's population was 138 as recorded by the 2011 census[9] a small rise since 2001 when there were 136 usual residents.[10] During the same period Scottish island populations as a whole grew by 4% to 103,702.[11] By 2022 the usually resident population was 142.[2] Most people on Berneray speak Scottish Gaelic, many as a first language.

## Commerce and transport

[edit]

* v
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Caledonian MacBrayne

Legend

| Berneray, N. Uist |  |

|  | Leverburgh, Harris

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|
|
|

|  |

|  |
Lochmaddy, N. Uist |  |

|  | Tarbert, Harris
|  |

|  |
|  |

|  |
|  |

|  | Uig, Skye
Lochboisdale, S. Uist |  |

|  |

to Castlebay & Oban

|  |

|  | Sconser, Skye Raasay
|  |

|  |
|  |

|  | Armadale, Skye
|  |

|  |
Canna |  |

|  |
Rùm |  |

|  |
|  |

|  | Tarbet, Loch Nevis
Eigg |  |

|  | Inverie, Knoydart
Muck |  |

|  |
|  |

|  | Mallaig
|  |

|  |

A830 to Glasgow Queen Street

|  |

|  |
|  |  |  |  |  |

Key

|  |  |

|  | Caledonian MacBrayne ferries

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|
|
|

|  |

|  | Bruce Watt ferry
|  |

|  | Bus connections
|  |  |  |  |  |
Borve and the machair The Machair towards the West beach of Berneray

The main industries are fishing, crofting (small-scale individual farming), media/IT and tourism. Broadband internet provision became available in January 2006, giving an incentive to people wishing to relocate to Berneray and helping sustain the population and community.[citation needed]

A key feature of Berneray is its machair. The machair is a coastal plain made up of windblown shell sand. Traditional crofting practice, which involves summer agriculture using seaweed together with dung from winter grazing animals as natural fertiliser, has, over time, bound together and stabilised the land. The machair is ploughed in rotation, giving a patchwork of crops and fallow of different ages which supports a wide range of flowers. Berneray has a particularly fine machair, a result of careful husbandry by the island's crofters, helped by the absence of rabbits.

The youth hostel on Berneray

The youth hostel on Berneray is part of the Gatliff Hebridean Hostels Trust. The hostel consists of two restored black houses and is located at a magnificent setting overlooking the sound of Harris.

Possibly the greatest change in modern times occurred in 1999 when the causeway opened between Berneray and Otternish on North Uist. This has eased travelling on and off the island, improving employment prospects and accelerating the carriage of produce (notably, crabs and lobster). The causeway contains culverts that allow the easy passage of otters and fish from one side of the structure to the other. The causeway was formally opened by Prince Charles in April 1999.[12] It is the first of a series of causeways connecting islands in the area. The North Ford Causeway (the A865) connects North Uist to the Isle of Benbecula. The South Ford Causeway (still the A865) connects Benbecula to South Uist. Finally, the Eriskay Causeway connects South Uist to Eriskay.[13]

Berneray is served by regular local bus services from Lochmaddy on North Uist, many of which form part of the "Spine Route" from Eriskay. Most services are operated by Grenitote Travel, with funding from Comhairle nan Eilean Siar. Berneray is also linked to Harris, Scotland via Leverburgh by the ferry MV Loch Portain, operated by Caledonian MacBrayne.

The CalMac ferry MV Loch Bhrusda is named after the largest loch on Berneray. It can occasionally be seen relieving for MV Loch Portain.

## Nature

[edit]

Grey seals, from the seal view point in Bay's Loch

Main article: Nature of the Outer Hebrides

The crofting practices also encourage a wide array of wildlife on Berneray. On early summer evenings you can sometimes hear snipe drumming, and even the rasp of a corncrake. Mute swans can be seen on Loch Brusda, and greylag geese are common. In the winter they are joined by barnacle, and a few brent geese. Ravens, grey herons and buzzards are often to be seen. Golden eagles and hen harriers are rarer sights, usually in the winter. Wading birds on the shore include redshank, sanderling, turnstone, oystercatcher, dunlin, curlew, whimbrel, ringed plover.

Further out, around the shores of Berneray, are mallards, eiders, red-breasted mergansers, and, more rarely, black-throated and great northern divers. Shags and cormorants fish in the seas around Berneray throughout the year, and in summer you can see gannets diving. Common seals often congregate at low tide on the rocks in Bays Loch, and can often be seen from the parking area a little way beyond the Post Office or by taking a boat trip out into the bay. Grey seals, which are larger and can be distinguished by the long "Roman" noses, also haul out there occasionally, but are more common off the West Beach. Though the otters of Berneray are out during the day more often than on the mainland, they are still elusive, and it takes patience and luck to see one.

## Media and the arts

[edit]

A documentary entitled Shepherds of Berneray was aired on UK television in 1981.

Berneray was in world news in 1987 when it was found that Charles, Prince of Wales had visited the island to live a normal Berneray life as a crofter.[14] He lived and worked with a crofter for one week and his visit spawned the later television documentary, A Prince Among Islands, in 1991.

In 2007 a DVD called The Old New Year – a living tradition on the Isle of Berneray \- was released about the island's Oidhche Challainn ("New Year's Eve", literally "Night of the Calends) celebration of New Year on 12 January in line the former Highland tradition of following the Julian Calendar.[15]

In 2009 it was reported that Berneray's west beach had been used to advertise Kae Bae beach in Trat Province, Thailand. A VisitScotland spokeswoman said that "I'm sure it is a compliment in disguise."[16]

The traditional Gaelic song 'Fàgail Bheàrnaraigh' (Leaving Berneray) later became the American folk song "O, Waly, Waly' The Water is Wide" with new lyrics added in English.

The English singer Vashti Bunyan wrote much of her debut album Just Another Diamond Day while living in a croft on Berneray. She revisits her old home at the end of Kieran Evans' documentary film about Bunyan's early life, Vashti Bunyan: From Here To Before.[17]

## Famous residents

[edit]

* Berneray is the birthplace of the giant Angus MacAskill.
* Iain Eairdsidh MacAsgaill, a World War I veteran of the King's Own Cameron Highlanders, Western Australian bush poet in Scottish Gaelic, and highly important figure in 20th-century Scottish Gaelic literature, was born and raised on Berneray.
* Donald MacKillop (1926 - 2015), a songwriter, poet, and important figure in Scottish Gaelic literature, was also from Berneray.
* Fish (singer) (1958 -) the Scottish writer, singer & actor owns a crofting smallholding on Berneray and has publicised plans to permanently relocate there in 2024/5 with his partner, as he retires from the music industry.[18]

## See also

[edit]

* Scottish islands portal

* List of islands of Scotland
* Burghead \- an east coast village that also celebrates the Old New Year.
* Newtonferry \- a village on North Uist

## References

[edit]

1. ^ a b Area and population ranks: there are c. 300 islands over 20 ha in extent. 93 permanently inhabited islands were listed in the 2011 census and 101 such islands in 2022.
2. ^ a b c "Scottish Islands Data Dashboard". RESAS/Scottish Government. 2025. p. 6. Retrieved 1 June 2025.
3. ^ a b c Haswell-Smith, Hamish (2004). The Scottish Islands. Edinburgh: Canongate. ISBN 978-1-84195-454-7.
4. ^ Ordnance Survey. OS Maps Online (Map). 1:25,000. Leisure.
5. ^ a b Mac an Tàilleir, Iain (2003) Ainmean-àite/Placenames. (pdf) Pàrlamaid na h-Alba. Retrieved 26 August 2012. p. 19
6. ^ "South Lewis, Harris & North Uist NSA 1:50,000 map" (PDF). Scottish Natural Heritage. 20 December 2010. Retrieved 7 October 2023.
7. ^ "National Scenic Areas". Scottish Natural Heritage. Retrieved 7 June 2018.
8. ^ "In praise of... Scottish islands". The Guardian. 11 November 2006. Retrieved 10 January 2009.
9. ^ National Records of Scotland (15 August 2013). "Appendix 2: Population and households on Scotland's Inhabited Islands" (PDF). Statistical Bulletin: 2011 Census: First Results on Population and Household Estimates for Scotland Release 1C (Part Two) (PDF) (Report). SG/2013/126. Retrieved 15 July 2025.
10. ^ General Register Office for Scotland (28 November 2003) Scotland's Census 2001 - Occasional Paper No 10: Statistics for Inhabited Islands. Retrieved 26 February 2012.
11. ^ "Scotland's 2011 census: Island living on the rise". BBC News. Retrieved 18 August 2013.
12. ^ "Otternish". Ports and Harbours of the UK. Retrieved 13 September 2009.
13. ^ Getting about – VisitOuterHebrides.co.uk
14. ^ "Berneray crofter who hosted prince on secret visit dies at 78". The Scotsman. 31 July 2009. Retrieved 29 August 2009.
15. ^ "Oidhche Challuinn DVD now available"[permanent dead link] (21 November 2007) Hi-Arts. Retrieved 25 June 2009.
16. ^ "Scots beach in Thai tourist guide". BBC. Retrieved 20 December 2009.
17. ^ "From Here To Before And Back Again – Kieran Evans". The Social. Retrieved 16 August 2020.
18. ^ "Rock star Fish swaps Haddington for quiet life on remote Hebridean island". The Scottish Daily Express. Retrieved 18 March 2024.

## External links

[edit]

Berneray, North Uist at Wikipedia's sister projects

* Media from Commons
* News from Wikinews
* Travel information from Wikivoyage

* Panorama of Berneray Beach (QuickTime required)
* Am Paipear Community Newspaper
* Berneray community website

57°43′10″N 7°11′11″W﻿ / ﻿57.71944°N 7.18639°W﻿ / 57.71944; -7.18639

* v
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* e

Islands in the Sound of Harris, Outer Hebrides

* Berneray/Beàrnaraigh na Hearadh
* Boreray/Boraraigh
* Ceallasaigh Mòr
* Ensay/Easaigh
* Gilsaigh
* Groaigh
* Hermetray/Thearnatraigh)
* Killegray/Ceileagraigh
* Opsaigh
* Pabbay/Pabaigh
* Sgarabhaigh
* Shillay/Siolaigh
* Stromay/Sròmaigh
* Sursaigh
* Tahay/Taghaigh

* v
* t
* e

Inhabited islands of the Hebrides

Inner Hebrides|

* Canna
* Coll
* Colonsay
* Danna
* Dry Island
* Eigg
* Eilean Buidhe
* Eilean dà Mhèinn
* Eilean Shona
* Erraid
* Gigha
* Gometra
* Iona
* Islay
* Isle of Ewe
* Jura
* Kerrera
* Lismore
* Muck
* Mull
* Oronsay
* Raasay
* Sanday
* Scalpay
* Rona
* Rùm
* Skye
* Slate Islands: (Easdale, Luing, Seil, Shuna)
* Soay
* Summer Isles
* Tiree
* Ulva

Outer Hebrides|

* Baleshare
* Barra
* Benbecula
* Berneray
* Eilean a' Ghiorr
* Eilean Leathann
* Eriskay
* Flodaigh
* Great Bernera
* Grimsay (North)
* Grimsay (South)
* Killegray
* Lewis and Harris
* North Uist
* Scalpay
* Seana Bhaile
* South Uist
* Vatersay

* v
* t
* e

Islands of Scotland

Geography

| Northern Isles|

* Shetland
* list
* Orkney
* list

|

Hebrides|

* Outer Hebrides
* list
* Inner Hebrides
* list
* St Kilda

Other|

* Islands of the Clyde
* Islands of the Forth
* Freshwater Islands
* Outlying Islands
* Sea Stacks

Prehistory

| Prehistoric Orkney|

* Heart of Neolithic Orkney World Heritage Site:
* Maeshowe
* Ness of Brodgar
* Ring of Brodgar
* Skara Brae
* Standing Stones of Stenness

|

Prehistoric Shetland|

* Zenith of Iron Age Shetland:
* Broch of Mousa
* Jarlshof
* Old Scatness

Prehistoric Western Isles|

* Callanish Stones
* Dun Carloway
* Rubha an Dùnain
* Dun Nosebridge

History

| Dál Riata|

* Columba
* Hinba

|

Kingdom of the Isles|

* Scandinavian Scotland
* Rulers of the Kingdom of the Isles
* Bishop of the Isles

Lordship of the Isles|

* Treaty of Perth
* Treaty of Ardtornish-Westminster
* Finlaggan

Earldom of Orkney|

* Buckquoy spindle-whorl
* Udal law

18th and 19th Century|

* Clearances
* Jacobite risings
* Flora MacDonald

Literature|

* Orkneyinga Saga
* Description of the Western Isles of Scotland (Monro)
* A Description of the Western Isles of Scotland (Martin)
* A Journey to the Western Islands of Scotland (Johnson)
* The Journal of a Tour to the Hebrides (Boswell)

Etymology

| General|

* Scottish island names
* Northern Isles
* Hebrides
* Ainmean-Àite na h-Alba

|

Specific|

* Arran
* Gigha
* Islay
* Skye
* St Kilda

Economy

| Towns|

* Kirkwall
* Lerwick
* Rothesay
* Stornoway
* Stromness

|

Agencies|

* Community Energy Scotland
* Crofters Commission
* Highlands and Islands Enterprise
* Scottish Islands Federation

Oil industry|

* Flotta
* Sullom Voe

Culture

| Shetland|

* Aly Bain
* Thomas Fraser
* Peerie Willie Johnson
* Shetland Amenity Trust
* Up Helly Aa
* Vagaland

|

Orkney|

* George Mackay Brown
* Peter Maxwell Davies
* F. Marian McNeill
* Kirkwall Ba game
* Orkney Heritage Society
* St Magnus Festival

Outer Hebrides|

* Compton Mackenzie
* Fèis Bharraigh
* Free Church of Scotland
* Iain Crichton Smith

Inner Hebrides|

* Islay whisky
* Runrig
* Sorley MacLean
* West Highland Free Press

Politics

| Local authorities|

* Shetland Islands Council
* Orkney Islands Council
* Comhairle nan Eilean Siar
* Highland Council
* Argyll and Bute
* North Ayrshire

|

Wildlife

| Fauna|

* Fair Isle wren
* Orkney vole
* Shetland wren
* St Kilda field mouse
* St Kilda wren

|

Flora|

* Arran whitebeams
* Scottish Primrose
* Shetland Mouse-ear

Domesticated animals|

* Cairn Terrier
* Eriskay Pony
* Hebridean Blackface
* Luing cattle
* North Ronaldsay sheep
* Scottie
* Sheltie
* Shetland cattle
* Shetland Goose
* Shetland pony
* Shetland sheep
* Soay sheep
* Westie

Geology

| Shetland|

* Geopark Shetland

|

Geology of Orkney|

* Eday Group
* Orcadian Basin
* Yesnaby Sandstone Group

Hebrides|

* Colonsay Group
* Great Estuarine Group
* Hebridean terrane
* Lewisian complex
* Lorne plateau lavas
* Moine supergroup
* Moine Thrust Belt
* Mull
* Rhinns complex
* Skye
* Staffa
* Torridonian

Islands of the Clyde|

* Highland Boundary Fault

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*[c.]: circa