Curry

Spiced Asian-inspired sauces and dishes

This article is about the dish with spices. For the spice mix, see Curry powder. For other uses, see Curry (disambiguation).

Lamb Madras curry

Curry is a dish with a sauce or gravy seasoned with spices, mainly derived from the interchange of Indian cuisine with European taste in food, starting with the Portuguese, followed by the Dutch and British, and then thoroughly internationalised. Many dishes that would be described as curries in English are found in the native cuisines of countries in Southeast Asia and East Asia. The English word is derived indirectly from some combination of Dravidian words.[1]

A first step in the creation of curry was the arrival in India of spicy hot chili peppers, along with other ingredients such as tomatoes and potatoes, part of the Columbian exchange of plants between the Old World and the New World. During the British Raj, Anglo-Indian cuisine developed, leading to Hannah Glasse's 18th century recipe for "currey the India way" in England. Curry was then spread in the 19th century by indentured Indian sugar workers to the Caribbean, and by British traders to Japan. Further exchanges around the world made curry a fully international dish.

Many types of curry exist in different countries. In Southeast Asia, curry often contains a spice paste and coconut milk. In India, the spices are fried in oil or ghee to create a paste; this may be combined with a water-based broth, or sometimes with milk or coconut milk. In China and Korea, curries are based on a commercial curry powder. Curry restaurants outside their native countries often adapt their cuisine to suit local tastes; for instance, Thai restaurants in the West sell red, yellow, and green curries with chili peppers of those colours, often combined with additional spices of the same colours. In Britain, curry has become a national dish, with some types adopted from India, others modified or wholly invented, as with chicken tikka masala, created by British Bangladeshi restaurants in the 20th century.

## Etymology

[edit]

Hannah Glasse's recipe for "currey the India way", first published in her 1747 book The Art of Cookery Made Plain and Easy. It is the first known use of the word in English. (The recipe uses the long s, "ſ").

The word curry is derived from Dravidian kari in languages such as Middle Tamil.[1][2] The Oxford Dictionaries suggest an origin specifically from Tamil.[3] Other Dravidian languages, namely Malayalam (കറി kari, "hot condiments; meats, vegetables"[4]), Middle Kannada and Kodava, have similar words.[1] Telugu, a South Central Dravidian language, has inherited the word (కూర, kūra, "meats; vegetables, herbs in general with, from Proto-Dravidian *kucc-; cognate with Tamil குய் (kuy, "seasoning with spices, spicy seasoned curry").[5]

Kaṟi is described in a 17th-century Portuguese cookbook[6] who were trading with Tamil merchants along the Coromandel Coast of southeast India, becoming known as a "spice blend ... called kari podi or curry powder".[7] The first appearance in its anglicised form (spelt currey) was in Hannah Glasse's 1747 book The Art of Cookery Made Plain and Easy.[1][6]

The term "curry" is not derived from the name of the curry tree, although some curries do include curry leaves among many other spices.[8][9] The cookery writer Pat Chapman noted the similarity of the words Karahi or Kadai, an Indian cooking dish shaped like a wok, without giving evidence.[10] "Curry" is not related to the word cury in The Forme of Cury,[6] a 1390s English cookbook;[11] that term comes from the Middle French word cuire, meaning 'to cook'.[1]

## Cultural exchanges

[edit]

### Ancient spice trade in Asia

[edit]

Around 5000 BCE, seafaring merchants from Austronesian communities began trading spices across the ocean. They sailed between South Asia and East Asia, especially the ports along southeastern India and Sri Lanka, creating some of the world's earliest maritime trade networks.[12][13] Archaeological discoveries at Mohenjo-daro show that people were using mortar and pestle to grind spices as early as 2600 BCE. They pounded mustard, fennel, cumin, and tamarind pods to create flavourings for their food.[14] Black pepper is native to the Indian subcontinent and Southeast Asia and has been known to Indian cooking since at least 2000 BCE.[15] The three basic ingredients of the spicy stew were ginger, garlic, and turmeric. Using starch grain analysis, archaeologists identified the residue of these spices in both skeletons and pottery shards from excavations in India, finding that turmeric and ginger were present.[16][17] Sauces in India before Columbus could contain black pepper or long pepper to provide a little heat, but not chili, so they were not spicy hot by modern standards.[18]

### Early modern trade

[edit]

Origin and spread of curry around the world. Mild spices were traded between India and East Asia from 5000 BCE.[12] The Columbian Exchange brought chili peppers to India.[19] Anglo-Indian food came to Britain in the 17th century.[18] The word "curry" was first recorded in print in Hannah Glasse's 1747 English cookery book.[1] In the 19th century, curry spread to the Caribbean[20] and to Japan,[21] and from there to Chinese people, starting in Singapore.[22] Further migration and globalisation (not shown) made curry a fully international dish.[23]

The establishment of the Mughal Empire, in the early 16th century, influenced some curries, especially in the north. Another influence was the establishment of the Portuguese trading centre in Goa in 1510, resulting in the introduction of chili peppers, tomatoes and potatoes to India from the Americas, as a byproduct of the Columbian Exchange.[19] The scholar of food culture Lizzie Collingham suggests that the Portuguese in Goa (in West India) heard and adopted words adopted into a local language from the Dravidian words from South India, becoming caril or carree as transcribed by British travellers of the time. This adoption resulting eventually in curry's modern meaning of a dish, often spiced, in a sauce or gravy.[24] In 1598, an English translation of a Dutch book about travel in the East Indies mentioned a "somewhat sour" broth called Carriel, eaten with rice.[23] The later Dutch word karie was used in the Dutch East Indies from the 19th century; many Indians had by then migrated to Southeast Asia.[23]

### British influence

[edit]

Further information: Anglo-Indian cuisine

Anglo-Indian cooks created what they called curry by selecting regional ingredients from all over British India, using these in Indian dishes from other regions. Lizzie Collingham describes their taste as "eclectic", "pan-Indian", "lacking sophistication", embodying a "passion for garnishes", and forming a "coherent repertoire"; but it was eaten only by the British. Among their creations were kedgeree and Madras curry, served with chutneys, pickles, Bombay duck, and poppadoms.[25]

Curry was introduced to English cuisine from Anglo-Indian cooking in the 17th century, as spicy sauces were added to plain boiled and cooked meats.[26] That cuisine was created in the British Raj when British wives or memsahibs instructed Indian cooks on the food they wanted, transforming many dishes in the process.[27] Further, in the late 18th and early 19th centuries, when there were few British women in India, British men often lived with Indian mistresses, acquiring the local customs, language, and food.[28] Curry was first served in coffee houses in Britain from 1809.[29]

Indian cooks in the 19th century prepared curries for their British masters simplified and adjusted to Anglo-Indian taste. For instance, a quarama from Lucknow contained (among other ingredients) ghee, yoghurt, cream, crushed almonds, cloves, cardamom, and saffron; whereas an 1869 Anglo-Indian quorema or korma, "different in substance as well as name",[30] had no cream, almonds, or saffron, but it added the then-standard British curry spices, namely coriander, ginger, and black peppercorns.[30][31] Curry, initially understood as "an unfamiliar set of Indian stews and ragouts",[32] had become "a dish in its own right, created for the British in India".[32] Collingham describes the resulting Anglo-Indian cuisine as "eclectic", "pan-Indian", "lacking sophistication", embodying a "passion for garnishes", and forming a "coherent repertoire"; but it was eaten only by the British.[25] Collingham writes that "The idea of a curry is, in fact, a concept that the Europeans imposed on India's food culture. Indians referred to their different dishes by specific names... But the British lumped all these together under the heading of curry.[26]

Elsewhere in the 19th century, curry was carried to the Caribbean by Indian indentured workers in the British sugar industry.[20][23]

### Globalisation

[edit]

Since the mid-20th century, curries of many national styles have become popular far from their origins, and increasingly become part of international fusion cuisine.[20] Alan Davidson writes that curry's worldwide extension is a result of the Indian diaspora and globalisation, starting within the British Empire, and followed by economic migrants who brought Indian cuisine to many countries.[23] In 1886, 咖喱 (Gālí) (Chinese pronunciation of "curry") appeared among the Chinese in Singapore.[22] Malay Chinese people then most likely brought curry to China.[23]

In India, spices are always freshly prepared for use in sauces.[33] Derived from such mixtures (but not containing curry leaves[34]), curry powder is a ready-prepared spice blend first sold by Indian merchants to European colonial traders. This was commercially available from the late 18th century,[35][36] with brands such as Crosse & Blackwell and Sharwood's persisting to the present.[37] British traders introduced the powder to Meiji era Japan, in the mid-19th century, where it became known as Japanese curry.[21]

## Types

[edit]

There are many varieties of curry. The choice of spices for each dish in traditional cuisine depends on regional cultural traditions and personal preferences.[38] Such dishes have names such as dopiaza and rogan josh that refer to their ingredients, spicing, and cooking methods.[26] Outside the Indian subcontinent, a curry is a dish from Southeast Asia which uses coconut milk and spice pastes, and is commonly eaten over rice.[39] Curries may contain fish, meat, poultry, or shellfish, either alone or in combination with vegetables. Others are vegetarian. A masala mixture is a combination of dried or dry-roasted spices commonly homemade for some curries.[38]

Dry curries are cooked using small amounts of liquid, which is allowed to evaporate, leaving the other ingredients coated with the spice mixture. Wet curries contain significant amounts of sauce or gravy based on broth, coconut cream or coconut milk, dairy cream or yogurt, or legume purée, sautéed crushed onion, or tomato purée.[38]

Curry powder, a commercially prepared mixture of spices marketed in the West, was first exported to Britain in the 18th century when Indian merchants sold a concoction of spices, similar to garam masala, to the British East India Company returning to Britain.[38] Other commercial mixes include curry pastes and Japanese-style curry roux (in block or powder form).[40]

Ways curries can vary[41][38] Type of variation | From | To

|
|

Mild ↔ Hot | Korma (aromatic spices[a]) | Madras (chili)
Watery ↔ Creamy  | Rogan josh (broth) | Korma (yoghurt or cream)
Dry ↔ Wet  | Tikka (skewered meat, spices) | Tikka masala (tomato, cream)
Sour ↔ Sweet  | Dopiaza (onion, lemon) | Pasanda (almonds, sugar)
Stir-fry ↔ Simmer  | Balti (oil, onion, potato) | Dhansak (lentils, spices, tomato)

## By region

[edit]

### United Kingdom

[edit]

Main article: Curry in the United Kingdom

Chicken tikka masala has been called Britain's national dish.[42]

Curry is very popular in the United Kingdom, with a curry house in nearly every town.[43][44] Such is its popularity that it has frequently been called its "adopted national dish".[42] It was estimated that in 2016 there were 12,000 curry houses, employing 100,000 people and with annual combined sales of approximately £4.2 billion.[45] The food offered is cooked to British taste, but with increasing demand for authentic Indian styles.[46] In 2001, chicken tikka masala was described by the British foreign secretary Robin Cook as "a true British national dish, not only because it is the most popular, but because it is a perfect illustration of the way Britain absorbs and adapts external influences."[47] Its origin is not certain, but many sources attribute it to British Asians; some cite Glasgow as the city of origin.[48][49][50] It may derive from butter chicken, popular in the north of India.[51]

Curries in Britain are derived partly from India and partly from invention in local Indian restaurants. They vary from mildly-spiced to extremely hot, with names that are to an extent standardised across the country, but are often unknown in India.[41]

Range of strengths of British curries[41] Strength | Example | Place of origin | Date of origin | Description

|
|
|
|

Mild  | Korma | Mughal court, North India | 16th century | Mild, creamy; may have almond, coconut, or fruit
Medium  | Madras | British Bangladeshi restaurants | 1970s | Red, spicy with chili powder
Hot  | Vindaloo | British Bangladeshi restaurants[b] | 1970s | Very spicy with chili peppers and potatoes[c]
Extreme  | Phall | British Bangladeshi, Birmingham | 20th century | High-strength chili pepper e.g. scotch bonnet, habanero

### South Asia

[edit]

Further information: Indian cuisine

Traditional karahi (left) and handi (right) serving dishes

Many Indian dishes are spicy and diverse by region. The spices chosen for a dish are freshly ground and then fried in hot oil or ghee to create a paste.[52] The content of the dish and style of preparation vary by region.[53] The sauces are made with spices including black pepper, cardamom, chili peppers, cinnamon, cloves, coriander, cumin, fennel seed, mustard seed, and turmeric.[53] As many as 15 spices may be used for a meat curry.[53] The spices are sometimes fried whole, sometimes roasted, sometimes ground and mixed into a paste.[53] The sauces are eaten with steamed rice or idli rice cakes in south India,[53] and breads such as chapatis, roti, and naan in the north.[54] The popular rogan josh, for example, from Kashmiri cuisine, is a wet dish of lamb with a red gravy coloured by Kashmiri chillies and an extract of the red flowers of the cockscomb plant (mawal).[55] Rice and curry is the staple dish of Sri Lanka.[56]

### East Asia

[edit]

Japanese curry is usually eaten as karē raisu – curry, rice, and often pickled vegetables, served on the same plate and eaten with a spoon, a common lunchtime canteen dish. It is less spicy and seasoned than Indian and Southeast Asian curries, being more of a thick stew than a curry. British people brought curry from the Indian colony back to Britain[57] and introduced it to Japan during the Meiji period (1868 to 1912), after Japan ended its policy of national self-isolation (sakoku), and curry in Japan was categorised as a Western dish.[58] Its spread across the country is attributed to its use in the Japanese Army and Navy which adopted it extensively as convenient field and naval canteen cooking, allowing even conscripts from the remotest countryside to experience the dish. The Japan Maritime Self-Defense Force traditionally have curry every Friday for lunch and many ships have their own recipes.[59] The standard Japanese curry contains onions, carrots, potatoes, and sometimes celery, and a meat that is cooked in a large pot. Sometimes grated apples or honey are added for additional sweetness and other vegetables are sometimes used instead.[60]

Curry spread to other regions of Asia. Curry powder is added to some dishes in the southern part of China. The curry powder sold in Chinese grocery stores is similar to Madras curry powder, but with the addition of star anise and cinnamon.[61] The former Portuguese colony of Macau has its own culinary traditions and curry dishes, including Galinha à portuguesa ("Portuguese-style chicken") and curry crab. Portuguese sauce is a sauce flavoured with curry and thickened with coconut milk.[62]

Curry was popularized in Korean cuisine when Ottogi entered the Korean food industry with an imported curry powder in 1969.[63][64] Korean curry powder contains spices including cardamom, chili, cinnamon, and turmeric.[65] Curry tteokbokki is made of tteok (rice cakes), eomuk (fish cakes), eggs, vegetables, and gochujang, fermented red chili paste. As in India, chilis were brought to Korea by European traders. Spicy chili sauce then replaced the soy sauce formerly used in tteokbokki.[66]

* Japanese style Karē-Raisu (curry rice)

* Korean tteokbokki
(rice cake curry)

### Southeast Asia

[edit]

In Burmese cuisine, curries are broadly called hin. Burmese curries contains meat simmered in a curry paste containing onion, garlic, shrimp paste, tomato, and turmeric. Burmese curries are often mild, without chili, and somewhat oily.[67][68]

Thai curries are called gaeng, and usually consist of meat, fish or vegetables in a sauce based on a paste made from chilies, onions or shallots, garlic, and shrimp paste.[69] A few stir-fried Thai dishes use phong kari, an Indian style curry powder.[70] In the West, Thai curries are often colour-coded green, yellow, and red, with green usually the mildest, red the hottest. Green curry is flavoured with green chili, coriander, kaffir lime, and basil; yellow, with yellow chili and turmeric; and red, with red chili.[71]

Malaysian Indian cuisine adapted curries (such as gulai, with coconut milk) via the region's Indian population,[72] but it has become a staple among the Malay and Chinese populations there. Malaysian curries have many varieties, but are often flavoured with cumin, cinnamon, turmeric, coconut milk, shallots, chili peppers, and garlic.[73]

Indian Indonesian cuisine consists of adaptations of authentic dishes from India, as well as original creations inspired by the diverse food culture of Indonesia. Curry in Indonesian is kari and in Javanese, kare. In Indonesian cuisine especially in Bandung, there is a dish called lontong kari, a combined of lontong and beef yellow curry soup.[74] In Javanese cuisine, kare rajungan, blue swimmer crab curry has become a delicacy of Tuban Regency, East Java.[75]

In Vietnamese cuisine, influenced by both Thai and Indian cooking, curry is known as cà ri. It is made with coconut milk, Madras curry powder with plenty of turmeric, and a variety of fresh ingredients such as coriander, lemongrass, and ginger.[76]

In the Philippines, a dish that may have been directly inspired by Indian curries is the oxtail stew kare-kare, possibly influenced by Sepoy expatriates during the brief British occupation of Manila (1762–1764), or indirectly via Southeast Asian spicy dishes.[77] Ginataan are native dishes using coconut milk,[78][79] which as in the case of Filipino chicken curry can be called 'curries' when curry powder is added.[80]

* Mutton gulai (Indonesian curry), part of nasi padang

* A traditional meal featuring several Burmese curries

* Filipino chicken curry

* Thai phanaeng with pork

* Vietnamese cà ri with chicken

### South Africa

[edit]

Bunny chow, South Africa

Curry spread to South Africa with the migration of people from the Indian subcontinent to the region in the colonial era. African curries, Cape Malay curries and Natal curries include the traditional Natal curry, the Durban curry, bunny chow, and roti rolls. South African curries appear to have been created in both KwaZulu-Natal and the Western Cape, while others developed across the country over the late 20th and early 21st centuries to include ekasi, coloured, and Afrikaner varieties.[81] Durban has the largest population of Indians outside of India in the world.[82] Bunny chow or a "set", a South African standard, consists of either lamb, chicken or bean curry poured into a tunnelled-out loaf of bread to be eaten with one's fingers by dipping pieces of the bread into it.[81][82] 'Bunny chow' means 'Indian food', from Banian, an Indian. The method of serving the curry was created because apartheid forbade black people from eating in Indian restaurants; the loaves could speedily be taken away and eaten in the street.[83]

## See also

[edit]

* The Curry Club

## Notes

[edit]

1. ^ Korma can be made with flavourings such as cloves, ginger, cardamom, cumin, coriander, turmeric, bay, onion and garlic.
2. ^ The name 'Vindaloo' is from Portuguese vinha d'alhos (with wine [vinegar] and garlic), but the British version is quite different.[41]
3. ^ The addition of potatoes may be from confusion of 'Vindaloo' with Hindi आलू āloo, potato.[41]

## References

[edit]

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## Sources

[edit]

* Collingham, Lizzie (2006) [2005 (Chatto & Windus)]. Curry: A Tale of Cooks and Conquerors. London: Vintage Books. ISBN 978-0-099-43786-4.
* Davidson, Alan (2014). Tom Jaine (ed.). The Oxford Companion to Food (3rd ed.). Oxford: Oxford University Press. ISBN 978-0-19-967733-7.

## Further reading

[edit]

* Achaya, K.T. (1994). Indian Food: A Historical Companion. Delhi: Oxford University Press.
* Burton, David (1993). The Raj at Table. London: Faber and Faber.
* Chapman, Pat (1997). Pat Chapman's Curry Bible. Hodder & Stoughton.
* Grove, Peter; Grove, Colleen (2011). The Flavours of History. London: Godiva Books.
* Iyer, Raghavan (2022). On the Curry Trail: Chasing the Flavor That Seduced the World. New York: Workman Publishing. ISBN 9781523511211. OCLC 1374192575.
* Jaffrey, Madhur (2023). Indian Cookery: A Cookbook. New York: Clarkson Potter. ISBN 9780593802960. OCLC 1415749343.
* Sen, Colleen Taylor (2009). Curry: A Global History. Edible. London: Reaktion Books. ISBN 9781861895226. OCLC 1391407698.

* v
* t
* e

English cuisine

Roman times|

| Dishes|

* Sausages

|

Middle Ages
to 15th century|

| Exemplars|

* Utilis Coquinario (c. 1300)
* The Forme of Cury (c. 1390)

|

Dishes|

* Apple pie
* Bacon
* Banbury cake
* Cheesecake
* Custard
* Game pie
* Gingerbread
* Kippers
* Mince pie
* Mortis
* Pasty
* Pease pudding
* Pie
* Pottage

16th century|

| Exemplars|

* Richard Pynson (The Boke of Cokery, 1500)
* Thomas Dawson (The Good Huswifes Jewell, 1585)

|

Dishes|

* Black pudding
* Fruit fool
* Pancake
* Scones
* Syllabub
* Trifle (without jelly)

17th century|

| Exemplars|

* Elinor Fettiplace (Receipt Book, 1604)
* Gervase Markham (The English Huswife, 1615)
* Robert May (The Accomplisht Cook, 1660)
* Hannah Woolley (The Queen-like Closet or Rich Cabinet 1670)
* John Evelyn (Acetaria: A Discourse of Sallets 1699)
* Kenelm Digby (The Closet Opened 1699)

|

Dishes|

* Battalia pie
* Currant bun
* Queen of Puddings
* Sponge cake
* Sussex pond pudding
* Sweet and sour
* Tea

18th century|

| Exemplars|

* Mary Kettilby (A Collection of Above Three Hundred Receipts in Cookery, Physick and Surgery 1714)
* Mary Eales (Mrs Mary Eales's Receipts 1718)
* John Nott (The Cooks and Confectioners Dictionary, 1723)
* Eliza Smith (The Compleat Housewife 1727)
* Hannah Glasse (The Art of Cookery Made Plain and Easy 1747)
* Ann Cook (Professed Cookery, 1754)
* Martha Bradley (The British Housewife 1758)
* Primitive Cookery (1767)
* Elizabeth Raffald (The Experienced English Housekeeper 1769)
* Richard Briggs (The English Art of Cookery 1788)
* William Augustus Henderson (The Housekeeper's Instructor 1791)

|

Dishes|

* Bread and butter pudding
* Christmas pudding
* Chutney
* Curry
* In UK
* Cottage or Shepherd's pie
* Cumberland rum nicky
* Eccles cake
* Jellied eels
* Jugged hare
* Ketchup
* Marmalade
* Parkin
* Piccalilli
* Pork pie
* Roast beef
* Sandwich
* Scouse
* Suet pudding
* Toad in the hole
* Trifle (with jelly)
* Welsh rarebit
* Yorkshire pudding

19th century|

| Exemplars|

* Maria Rundell (A New System of Domestic Cookery 1806)
* Martha Brotherton (Vegetable Cookery 1812)
* Eliza Acton (Modern Cookery for Private Families 1845)
* Charles Elmé Francatelli (The Modern Cook 1846)
* Isabella Beeton (Mrs. Beeton's Book of Household Management 1861)

|

Dishes|

* Bubble and squeak
* Cauliflower cheese
* Cobbler
* Devilled kidneys
* Faggots
* Fish and chips
* Full English breakfast
* HP Sauce
* Ice cream cone
* Lancashire hotpot
* Potted shrimps
* Sausage roll
* Steak and kidney pudding
* Battenberg cake
* Eton mess
* Eve's pudding
* Jam roly-poly
* Lardy cake
* Madeira cake
* Summer pudding
* Windsor soup
* Worcestershire sauce

20th century|

| Exemplars|

* Florence Petty
* Elizabeth David (A Book of Mediterranean Food 1950)
* Dorothy Hartley (Food in England 1954)
* Constance Spry
* Fanny Cradock
* Marguerite Patten
* Jane Grigson
* Delia Smith
* Rick Stein
* Nigel Slater
* Keith Floyd
* Marco Pierre White
* Nigella Lawson
* Jamie Oliver
* Fergus Henderson (The Whole Beast 1999)
* Gordon Ramsay
* Gary Rhodes
* Mary Berry

|

Dishes|

* Bakewell tart
* Beef Wellington
* Carrot cake
* Chicken tikka masala
* Coronation chicken
* Crumble
* Knickerbocker glory
* Ploughman's lunch
* Salad cream
* Sticky toffee pudding

21st century|

| Exemplars|

* Heston Blumenthal (The Fat Duck)
* Lizzie Collingham
* Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall (River Cottage)
* Rachel Khoo
* Michel Roux Jr. (Le Gavroche)
* Antony Worrall Thompson
* Clarissa Dickson Wright (A History of English Food 2011)

|

Dishes|

* Coronation quiche
* Platinum Pudding

Related|

* List of English dishes
* List of English cheeses
* List of savoury puddings
* List of sweet puddings
* Rationing in the United Kingdom

Authority control databases

National|

* Germany
* United States
* Japan
* Israel

Other|

* Yale LUX

*[v]: View this template
*[t]: Discuss this template
*[e]: Edit this template
*[c.]: circa