Janga (mountain)

Mountain in Georgia and Russia

Janga

Dzhangi-Tau or Jangi-Tau

Main Caucasus Ridge panorama between Katyn-Tau and Shkara peaks from georgian side. 2011

Highest point
Elevation| 5,085 m (16,683 ft)
Prominence| 335 m (1,099 ft)
Isolation| 4.41 km (2.74 mi)
Coordinates| 43°1′5″N 43°3′29″E﻿ / ﻿43.01806°N 43.05806°E﻿ / 43.01806; 43.05806
Naming
Native name|

* Джангы тау (Karachay-Balkar)
* ჯანღა (Georgian)

Geography

Janga

Location of Janga within the Caucasus mountains

Show map of Caucasus Mountains

Janga

Janga (Kabardino-Balkaria)

Show map of Kabardino-Balkaria

Janga

Janga (Samegrelo-Zemo Svaneti)

Show map of Samegrelo-Zemo Svaneti

Location| Mestia, Georgia / Russia
Countries| Russia and Georgia
Parent range| Caucasus Mountains
Climbing
First ascent| 1888

Janga (Georgian: ჯანღა [dʒanɣa]) or Jangi-Tau (Karachay-Balkar: Джангы тау, romanized: Cañı taw, lit. 'new mountain') or Dzhangi-Tau [1] (Russian: Джанги-Тау, romanized: Džangi-Tau) is a summit in the central part of the Greater Caucasus Mountain Range. Mountain has three peaks - the main peak Jangi-Tau with elevation above sea level 5,085 m (16,683 ft),[2] West Peak with elevation 5,059 m (16,598 ft)[3] and East Peak with elevation 5,034 m (16,516 ft)[4] Mountain lies on the border of Svaneti (Georgia) and Kabardino-Balkaria (Russia).[5] The slopes of the mountain are heavily glaciated. They are most famous for the dormant volcanoes that are hidden under the ice caps[citation needed].

## History

[edit]

On September 12, 1888, English climber John Garforth Cockin with Swiss guides Ulrich Almer and Christian Roth, were the first to climb East Janga, who had climbed the main ridge a few days earlier, and later - Ushba and Dykh-Tau.[6] The most difficult, 5 B category (Russian Grading) route (south-western wall) was first traced by Georgian mountaineers (Grisha Gulbani - group leader Giorgi Berdzenishvili, Jokia Gugava, Sozar Gugava, Ilo Kavlashvili, Suliko Khabeishvili). The first ascent to the main Janga also belongs to foreign climbers.[7]

On July 23, 1935, they climbed the peak of the north-eastern ridge (5 A category, Russian Grading ) to R. Schwarzgruber (group leader) v. Marini, f. Peringer et al. Thaler. Only one route passes through the Khalde Glacier. In 1965, Givi Kartvelishvili (group leader), Tamaz Bakanidze, Nugzar Bakradze, Besik Bakradze, Tengiz Berishvili and Dimitri Sharashenidze reached the peak of the main wall through the south wall of the USSR championship program. West Janga is the most inaccessible among the peaks of the array.[7]

It cannot be taken from the north due to "frost and avalanche" danger. There are two routes from Khalde Glacier (1960 - Otar Khazaradze, 1964 - I. Reformatorski).[7]

## References

[edit]

1. ^ Archil Badriashvili Dzhangi-tau, Southwest Face, Kartvelishvili Route with Variant The American Alpine Club 2020
2. ^ Jangi-Tau, Russia/Georgia peakbagger.com
3. ^ Jangi-Tau - West Peak, Russia/Georgia peakbagger.com
4. ^ Jangi-Tau - East Peak, Russia/Georgia peakbagger.com
5. ^ Dzhangi-Tau. Weather Forecast, Georgia mountain-forecast.com
6. ^ J. G. Cockin, « Shkara, Janga, and Ushba », The Alpine Journal, vol. XVI, n° 122, novembre 1893, pp. 477-494 - reproduced in Douglas W. Freshfield, The exploration of Caucasus, E. Arnold, 1896, Volume II, pp. 38-58
7. ^ a b c Jangha Archived 2016-04-07 at the Wayback Machine The Olympians Club of Georgia

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