List of Mount Everest guides

Professional mountaineering guides

A guide helped this group of Canadians trek near to Everest (in the background on top-left), to the nearby Kala Pathar peak.

This is a list of notable Mount Everest guides, which are professional mountaineers (and mountaineering firms) who help people to ascend Mount Everest in the Himalayas in return for fees. Previously, the summit was only accessible to expert mountaineers who were often self-guided, or assisted by local sherpas.

## Role

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Guides can, for example, set fixed lines of rope for others to use, organize rescues in times of trouble, or use communication tools to call in helicopter evacuations.[1][2] Another job on Mount Everest is as an "icefall doctor" using ladders and ropes to make a path across the Khumbu Icefall, which guides might do themselves or delegate to others.[3] Guides, especially if they are guiding for a mountaineering or adventure company, often call the people they help up "clients".[4]

Another task on Everest is helping people with medical problems, although the work can be dangerous.[5] When potentially deadly health conditions strike, the guides can sometimes lose their clients or abort the climb.[6] One mother of two died after developing a health problem at the Everest base camp.[7]

Mount Everest guides assist climbers on what are called "guided" climbs, and guided ascent can cost double an unguided one.[8] Many climbers in more recent times are unguided but can get some support from a Sherpa, which, though more similar to an Alpinist porter, is much cheaper and also called a guide.[8] The term guide can mean something along the lines of an assistant all the way to a World-famous mountaineer.[8]

## Notable guides

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* Adrian Ballinger[9]
* Andy Harris[10]
* Andy Tyson[11]
* Anatoli Boukreev[12]
* Andrew LockHome
* Arnold Coster
* Bill Allen
* Dan Nash[9]
* Daniel Mazur[13]
* Dave Hahn[14]
* David Breashears[15]
* David Hamilton[16]
* David Morton[17][18]
* Jacob Schmitz
* Dean Staples[4]
* Eric Simonson[19]
* Garrett Madison[2]
* Gheorghe Dijmărescu
* Kenton Cool[20]
* Lydia Bradey[4]
* Mike Hamill
* Mark Whetu[6]
* Mark Woodward[4]
* Michael Horst[21]
* Michael Groom[10]
* Mike Roberts[4]
* Neal Beidleman[22]
* Phil Crampton[23]
* Phil Ershler[24]
* Rob Hall[1][10]
* Russell Brice[25]
* Scott Fischer[10]
* Vernon Tejas
* Wally Berg[26]
* Ryan Waters
* Willie Benegas

## Notable Nepali guides

[edit]

Pem Dorjee Sherpa transverses a crevasse in the ice

* Ang Rita (Angrita Sherpa)
* Ang Dorje Sherpa
* Ang Tharkay
* Apa Sherpa
* Babu Chiri Sherpa
* Kami Rita Sherpa
* Lakpa Gelu
* Lopsang Jangbu Sherpa
* Nawang Gombu
* Pem Dorjee Sherpa
* Pertemba (Pertemba Sherpa)
* Phurba Tashi
* Sungdare Sherpa
* Temba Tsheri
* Tashi Tenzing
* Tenzing Norgay

## Notable firms

[edit]

* Adventure Consultants
* Asian Trekking
* Himex (Himalayan Experience)
* Jagged Globe[16]
* Mountain Madness

## See also

[edit]

* List of summiters of Mount Everest
* List of people who died climbing Mount Everest
* Nepal Mountaineering Association

## References

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1. ^ a b "Fixed ropes - climbers guide to Everest". mounteverest.net. Retrieved 23 March 2015.
2. ^ a b "Mount Everest avalanche survivor: 'I had to survive'". USA TODAY.
3. ^ "Elite Sherpa Dies in Fall on Everest". April 8, 2013.
4. ^ a b c d e "Record-breaking glory on Mt Everest". The New Zealand Herald. May 25, 2023.
5. ^ "Rutgers graduate dies on Mount Everest". Courier News.
6. ^ a b "The Fatal Game - Alpinist.com". www.alpinist.com.
7. ^ "British mother Debra Wilding dies climbing Everest".
8. ^ a b c The Cost$ of Climbing Everest, 2010
9. ^ a b "Speeding Up Everest". April 3, 2014.
10. ^ a b c d "Those Who Died | Storm Over Everest | FRONTLINE". www.pbs.org.
11. ^ "Andy Tyson". Teton Valley News. April 16, 2015.
12. ^ "Into Thin Air: A Personal Account of the Mount Everest Disaster by Jon Krakauer (9780385494786) | Riverbend Books". www.riverbendbooks.com.au. Archived from the original on 2015-07-14.
13. ^ "Inside Dateline: Everest survivor". NBC News. June 21, 2006.
14. ^ "National Geographic". Archived from the original on June 7, 2013.
15. ^ "The Adventurer: Dick Bass' Many Summits". Forbes. Archived from the original on May 11, 2004.
16. ^ a b "Everest: is it right to go back to the top?". The Guardian. 2015-04-12. Retrieved 2018-01-12.
17. ^ "After the Shock: Walking the Everest Route | Outside Online". www.outsideonline.com. Archived from the original on 2015-05-10.
18. ^ "Dave Morton is Quitting Everest. Maybe. (It's Complicated.)". 5 April 2016.
19. ^ "Conrad Anker, the Wildest Dream: Conquest of Everest -- National Geographic". Archived from the original on 2013-06-07. Retrieved 2013-08-19.
20. ^ "What is it like to climb Everest?". BBC News.
21. ^ "Everest and Lhotse in Less Than 21 Hours". Climbing.com. Archived from the original on 20 September 2011. Retrieved 16 October 2011.
22. ^ "Facts & Statistics | Storm Over Everest | FRONTLINE". www.pbs.org.
23. ^ "Everest on hold as Sherpas call for fairer pay". NDTV.com.
24. ^ "Conquering life's lows has been the true test of climbing couple's mettle".
25. ^ Savage, D.; Torgler, B. (February 25, 2015). The Times They Are A Changin': The Effect of Institutional Change on Cooperative Behaviour at 26,000ft over Sixty Years. Springer. ISBN 9781137525154 – via Google Books.
26. ^ "Everest: Wally Berg". May 14, 2010.

## External links

[edit]

* Alan's page on guides

* v
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Mount Everest

Topography
and landmarks|

* Base Camp
* Geneva Spur
* Hillary Step
* Hornbein Couloir
* Kangshung Face (East Face)
* Kangshung Glacier
* Khumbu Glacier
* Khumbu Icefall
* Lhakpa La
* Lho La
* North Col
* North Face
* Norton Couloir
* Rongbuk Glacier
* South Col
* South Summit
* Three Pinnacles
* Three Steps
* "Green Boots cave"
* Western Cwm

Expeditions|

* 1921 British reconnaissance
* 1922 British
* 1924 British (Affair of the Dancing Lamas)
* 1933 British aerial reconnaissance
* 1933 British
* 1935 British
* 1936 British
* 1938 British
* 1950–52 British–Swiss–US reconnaissance
* 1951 British
* 1952 Swiss
* 1953 British
* 1960 Chinese
* 1963 American
* 1975 British SW Face
* 1976 British–Nepalese SW Face
* 1979 Yugoslav West Ridge
* 1996 Indo-Tibetan Border Police
* 2006 Philippine
* 2007 Altitude Everest expedition
* Earth Day 20 International Peace Climb
* Mallory and Irvine Research Expedition

Notable fatalities|

* Francys Arsentiev (Sleeping Beauty)
* Peter Boardman
* Green Boots
* Scott Fischer
* Rob Hall
* Sandy Irvine
* George Mallory
* Hannelore Schmatz
* David Sharp
* Joe Tasker

Committees|

* Joint Himalayan Committee
* Mount Everest Committee

In media|

* Beyond the Edge
* The Climb (book)
* The Climb (2007 film)
* The Epic of Everest
* Everest (1998 film)
* Everest (2015 film)
* Everest (Indian TV series)
* Everest '82
* Everest: Beyond the Limit
* EverestMax
* Expedition Everest (roller coaster)
* Into Thin Air
* The Man Who Skied Down Everest
* Mount Everest webcam
* Paths of Glory
* Peak
* The Conquest of Everest
* The Wildest Dream
* Wings Over Everest

Years|

* 1970 disaster
* 1974 avalanche
* 1988 disaster
* 1996 disaster
* 2012
* 2013
* 2014 avalanche
* 2015 avalanches
* 2016
* 2017
* 2018

Mount Everest massif|

* Khumbutse
* Lhotse
* Lingtren
* Nuptse
* Pumori

Records|

* Times to the summit
* 20th-century summiters

Mountain guides|

* List of Mount Everest guides
* Sherpas

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