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Fendi

From Wikipedia - Reading time: 16 min
For other uses, see Fendi (disambiguation).

Fendi Srl
Company typeSubsidiary
IndustryFashion
Founded1925; 99 years ago (1925)
FoundersAdele and Edoardo Fendi
Headquarters
Palazzo della Civiltà Italiana
Quadrato della Concordia 3
00144 Rome
Italy
41°50′13″N 12°27′55″E / 41.83689°N 12.46521°E / 41.83689; 12.46521
Number of locations
277 stores worldwide (2023)[1]
Key people
Bernard Arnault (Group CEO)
Pierre-Emmanuel Angeloglou (CEO)[2]
Silvia Venturini Fendi (Artistic Director)[3]
Delfina Delettrez Fendi (Artistic Director)[4]
ParentLVMH
Websitewww.fendi.com
Fendi shop at the Elements, Union Square, Kowloon

Fendi Srl (Italian pronunciation: [ˈfɛndi]) is an Italian luxury fashion house producing fur, ready-to-wear, leather goods, shoes, fragrances, eyewear, timepieces and accessories. Founded in Rome in 1925 by Edoardo Fendi and Adele Casagrande,[5] Fendi is known for its fur, fur accessories, and leather goods. Since 2001, Fendi has been part of the “Fashion & Leather Goods” division of the French group LVMH. Its headquarters are in Rome, in the Palazzo della Civiltà Italiana.[6]

History

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Early years

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The house of Fendi was launched in 1925 by Adele and Edoardo Fendi (1904–1954) as a fur and leather shop in Via del Plebiscito, Rome.[7] In 1932 Adele and Edoardo Fendi opened a boutique in via Piave; the shop became a popular destination for tourists in Rome.[8]

In 1946, the five sisters Paola, Anna, Franca, Carla, and Alda joined the company in its second generation as a family-owned enterprise,[9] each owning 20 percent.[10] Karl Lagerfeld joined Fendi in 1965[11] and became the creative director for the fur and women's ready-to-wear collections (launched in 1977).[12]

In 1966, Lagerfeld created the company logo,[13] a double F in a square, which would later be the subject of various reinterpretations. Also in 1966, Fendi presented its first high fashion collection, expanding its interests in the United States and Japan. In 1969, its first commercial line of fur was launched, and in the following years, cosmetics and men's accessories were released. In 1977, Fendi introduced clothing for the first time, its ready-to-wear collection.[14]

1980s–1990s

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In the 1980s, Fendi expanded its range with perfumes in 1985,[8] as well as eyewear, jeans, and home furnishings in 1987.[15]

In 1989, Fendi opened its first United States boutique in New York on 5th Avenue.

In 1994, Lagerfeld launched the Knicoat collection, a line of wool coats and sweaters designed to be worn together.[16]

Also by 1994, fashion operations were responsible for 90 percent of the firm's total revenue, of which 50 percent came from leather goods and accessories, 20 percent from apparel and 20 percent from furs.[17] That year, Paola Fendi handed over the presidency of the company to her younger sister Carla.[18] Silvia Venturini Fendi, daughter of Anna, also joined the fashion house in 1994 and has since been the artistic director for accessories and co-designer of the women's line alongside Lagerfeld; in 1997 she designed the Baguette Bag, an iconic model that beat all sales and notoriety records.[14]

Sale of controlling share

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Fendi was a family-controlled company until 1999, when Prada and LVMH, the world's biggest luxury goods group, joined to buy 51 percent of Fendi for $545 million; competitor Gucci lost out in the bidding process.[19][20] Under the deal, Prada and LVMH were obligated to acquire any of the 49 percent of Fendi, should the sisters decide to sell.[10] The label lost approximately 20 million euros in 2001 and again in 2002.[21] In 2002, Prada agreed to sell its 25.5 percent stake to LVMH for $265 million.[22] In 2002, LVMH acquired an additional 15.9 percent of the company.[23] Carla Fendi, a member of the founding family, continued to act as chairwoman and a minority owner until 2008.[21]

On 19 October 2007, Fendi chose the Great Wall of China to present its spring-summer collection and with 88 models, the first fashion show there.[24][25][26]

In 2009, Silvia Venturini Fendi created the Peekaboo bag, achieving a success comparable to the Baguette Bag.[27][28]

2010s

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Fendi Christmas installation in Taipei, Taiwan, 2017

In 2015, Fendi celebrated fifty years of business with Karl Lagerfeld and organized its first haute couture fashion show dedicated to furs, Haute Fourrure, at the Théâtre des Champs-Élysées in Paris.[29][30] Later the brand celebrated its 90th anniversary with a fashion show at the Trevi fountain in Rome[31][32] and planned to move its headquarters to Palazzo della Civiltà Italiana,[33] paying 2.8 million euros per annum to occupy the space;[34] Fendi instead opened a hotel and its largest store at the location in 2016.[35]

In 2017, Fendi collaborated with Rimowa on an aluminum multiwheel suitcase.[36] Also in 2017, Fendi released a customization shop in collaboration with e-commerce platform Farfetch for made-to-order handbag designs.[37]

By 2018, Fendi crossed the 1 billion euro ($1.2 billion) threshold in annual sales[38] and had 3,000 employees worldwide, including around 400 in specialist leather and fur ateliers in Italy, and operated a network of 215 stores.[38]

2020s

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In September 2020, English designer Kim Jones was announced as artistic director of Fendi's women's collection, formerly occupied by Lagerfeld.[39] Under his leadership, Fendi collaborated on a clothing collections with Kim Kardashian West's shapewear brand Skims (2021),[40] Versace (2022)[41] and Stefano Pilati (2023).[42]

In May 2024, Fendi announced its return to the perfume market with a first collection of seven scents directly inspired by its origins.[43]

In October 2024, LVMH announced the departure of Kim Jones from Fendi.[44] There was no announcement of a successor.

Other activities

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Diffusion lines

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In 1983, Fendi launched the Fendissime diffusion line of furs, ready-to-wear clothing and handbags, then designed by Silvia, Maria Teresa and Federica Fendi.[45][46] From 1987 to 1992, Silvia Venturini Fendi served as the label's designer.[47] The Fendissime line closed in 2001.[48]

Other diffusion lines have included Fendi 365, Fendi Country (later Fendi Jeans),[17] and Fendi Maglia knitwear.[49] Through licensing agreements, Gruppo Nadini manufactured and distributed several of these lines.

Fendi Kids

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The Fendi Kids label made its debut in Spring/Summer 2011.[50]

Fragrances

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All previous Fendi fragrances were removed from the market after the end of the brand's beauty license with Gucci Group's YSL Beauté division in 2005.[51]

In 2007, Fendi introduced its Fendi Palazzo women's fragrance but stopped selling it in 2009 already.[51] In 2010, the brand launched a new fragrance – Fan di Fendi –, the first Fendi scent to be unleashed under LVMH Fragrance Brands, before discontinuing its fragrances in 2015.[52] In 2024, Fendi unveiled a high-end fragrance collection consisting of seven scents.[53]

Eyewear

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From 2013 until 2021, the company had a brand licensing agreement with Safilo for the design, production and worldwide distribution of Fendi sunglasses and optical frames.[54]

In 2021, Fendi ended its partnership with Safilo and entered into an agreement with LVMH-owned Thelios to create, produce, and distribute its eyewear collection.[55]

Fendi Casa

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Fendi started its first line of home furnishings in 1987.[15] Fendi Casa terminated its collaboration with licensee Luxury Living and instead partnered with Design Holding, jointly controlled by Investindustrial and The Carlyle Group, on creating Fashion Furniture Design (FF Design) to produce and distribute Fendi Casa.[56][15]

Real estate

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In 2016, Fendi collaborated with the interior designer Fanny Haim on the Fendi Château Residences, a 12-story beachfront condo in Surfside designed by the architecture firm Arquitectonica.[57]

Artistic directors

[edit]
Silvia Venturini Fendi in 2019

After 2019 Karl Lagerfeld's direction (1965–2019), Silvia Venturini Fendi took over both the men's and women's collections.

From September 2020, the women's collection was entrusted to Kim Jones, former stylist for the Dior men's collection, who was appointed artistic director of couture and womenswear. Jones' debut collection was for Fall / Winter 2021/2022.[58] During his tenure at Fendi, he frequently referenced Lagerfeld's ready-to-wear.[59] He left the company in 2024.[60]

Silvia Venturini remains artistic director of accessories and menswear.[61] In 2021 Delfina Delettrez Fendi, Silvia's daughter, was appointed artistic director of jewelry.[62][63]

Fendi store in Melbourne

Cinema

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Fendi has often collaborated with cinema; the maison has designed the clothes for Once Upon a Time in America, Evita and The Royal Tenenbaums.[64][65] Many famous film directors in the 1970s, including Luchino Visconti, Federico Fellini, Franco Zeffirelli, and Mauro Bolognini, chose Fendi furs for their characters.[66]

Fendi has also dressed Sophia Loren, Diana Ross, Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis, Soraya, and Liza Minnelli.[67]

Campaigns

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Lagerfeld himself was responsible for the photography of most of Fendi's ad campaigns before his death; since then, Fendi has worked with Philip-Lorca diCorcia (2001),[68] Nick Knight,[69] Craig McDean[70] and Steven Meisel.[71]

Past campaigns have featured Mark Ronson (2012),[72] Catherine Zeta-Jones (2019),[73] Zoey Deutch (2020),[74] Linda Evangelista (2022),[75] Naomi Campbell (2023)[76] and Nicholas Galitzine (2023),[77] among others.

Philanthropy

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Heritage restoration

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In 2013, Fendi pledged more than 2 million euros to sponsor projects, including a clean-up of the Quattro Fontane[78] and the restoration of the Trevi Fountain in Rome, and held the company's 90th anniversary show over the fountain using a plexiglas floor.[79][80]

In 2019, Fendi committed 2.5 million euros to restore the Temple of Venus and Roma, when it held its couture show at the site.[81] By 2021, Fendi completed the temple's restoration.[82]

In December 2023, Fendi joined the restoration of heritage at Villa d'Este. In partnership with the Villas Adriana and d'Este, Fendi announced its new sponsorship project which consisted in the restoration of the grotto of Diana in the gardens of the Villa d'Este in Tivoli, near Rome.[83]

Visual arts

[edit]

In 2017, Fendi installed Foglie di Pietra [Leaves of Stone], a sculpture by Giuseppe Penone, in Rome's Largo Goldoni and donated to the city; Fendi committed to maintaining and preserving the monument for 30 years.[84] Also in 2017, Fendi sponsored the Italian pavilion at the 57th Venice Biennale.[85]

In 2018, Fendi signed a partnership with the Galleria Borghese to support the museum's exhibitions for the following three years.[86]

Other activities

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In 2021, Fendi collaborated with a non-profit organization to create a 'charity project' which consisted of designing a kids' unisex T-shirt whose money would be devoted to realize the wishes of kids who suffer from serious sicknesses.[87][88]

In 2021 and 2022, Fendi collaborated with the Juilliard School on assigning the Fendi Vanguard Award – including a cash prize and a mentorship program – to four out of Julliard's final-year students enrolled in the bachelor's, master's and advanced diploma programs.[89]

Controversy

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Fendi sued Burlington in 1986 for selling counterfeit handbags, and filed a new lawsuit in 2006 after concluding the company was violating the injunction. In 2010, a U.S. Magistrate recommended that Burlington pay Fendi just over $5.6 million in damages, attorney's fees and costs to settle a dispute dating to 1986 over the alleged sale of counterfeit Fendi-branded leather goods. Burlington subsequently agreed to pay $10.05 million.[90]

Also in 2010, Fendi reached a $2.5 million settlement with the former parent company of Filene's Basement to resolve counterfeiting claims.[90]

References

[edit]
  1. ^ Fendi store directory.
  2. ^ Fendi, cambio al vertice: il nuovo ceo è Pierre-Emmanuel Angeloglu
  3. ^ Scott, Fiona Sinclair (14 January 2020). "After Losing Karl Lagerfeld, Silvia Fendi Forges on at One of Italy's Most Storied Fashion Houses." CNN. Retrieved 31 May 2020.
  4. ^ Delfina Delettrez Fendi: «My family challenge»
  5. ^ "The History of Fendi". US. Archived from the original on 24 February 2022. Retrieved 24 February 2022.
  6. ^ Fendi Relocates To A Roman Palace
  7. ^ Chevalier, Michel; Gerald Mazzalovo (2012). "3". Luxury Brand Management (second ed.). Singapore: John Wiley & Sons. p. 53 (of 316). ISBN 978-1-118-17176-9.
  8. ^ a b Fendi, 90 anni di storia italiana
  9. ^ "Fendi perfumes and colognes". Fragrantica.com. Retrieved 24 October 2011.
  10. ^ a b John Tagliabue (October 13, 1999), French-Italian Alliance Takes Controlling Stake in Fendi New York Times.
  11. ^ Findley, Lewis. "The History of Fendi". journal.williamgeorge.com. Retrieved 24 February 2022.
  12. ^ Bergin, Olivia (24 October 2011). "Karl Lagerfeld to launch new, accessible line". The Telegraph. London. Archived from the original on 4 November 2011. Retrieved 24 October 2011.
  13. ^ "Fendi-evolution, mezzo secolo di logomania". Archived from the original on 24 November 2022. Retrieved 22 July 2022.
  14. ^ a b Fendi rewind, storia del brand che celebra il lusso dell'artigianalità
  15. ^ a b c Luisa Zargani (October 5, 2021), Fendi Previews New Home Collection in Rome Women's Wear Daily.
  16. ^ Sara Gay Forden (25 January 1994), Fast Forward At Fendi Women's Wear Daily.
  17. ^ a b Sarah Gay Forden (25 January 1994), Fast Forward At Fendi Women's Wear Daily.
  18. ^ FENDI INVESTIGATED British Vogue, 2 December 2003.
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  20. ^ Suzy Menkes (October 13, 1999), Prada and LVMH Join Forces to Buy Italian Fashion House Fendi International Herald Tribune.
  21. ^ a b Tracie Rozhon (October 22, 2003), A Struggling LVMH Unit Looks Beyond the Handbag; But Fendi Insists That Leather and Fur Are Forever New York Times.
  22. ^ Prada Selling Fendi Shares to LVMH Associated Press, November 24, 2001.
  23. ^ LVMH Adds Another 15.9 Percent of Fendi Women's Wear Daily, July 9, 2002.
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  25. ^ "fendi at the great wall of china". designboom | architecture & design magazine. 21 October 2007. Retrieved 13 May 2024.
  26. ^ China's Great Wall gets first major fashion show
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  28. ^ Silvia Venturini Fendi Reflects on Designing the Peekaboo Bag, 10 Years Onwards
  29. ^ Fendi's 'haute fourrure' closes Paris couture week
  30. ^ Haute Fourrure 2017: Fendi
  31. ^ "Fendi celebrates 90 years with runway show at Trevi Fountain". Archived from the original on 24 November 2022. Retrieved 22 July 2022.
  32. ^ Fendi celebrates its 90 years at the Trevi Fountain
  33. ^ Stephanie Kirchgaessner (October 22, 2015), Fendi rejects criticism over new HQ in Mussolini propaganda building The Guardian.
  34. ^ Fendi's New Headquarters Are a Fascist Icon Archived 2018-09-07 at the Wayback Machine Blouin Artinfo, July 18, 2013.
  35. ^ Robert Murphy (January 13, 2016), [1] WSJ..
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  37. ^ Rachel Arthur (29 November 2017). "Customized Luxury: Fendi Turns To Digital For Bespoke Handbag Launch". Forbes. Retrieved 27 March 2018.
  38. ^ a b Sudip Kar-Gupta and Sarah White (February 20, 2018), LVMH taps Dior's Brunschwig to lead luxury brand Fendi Reuters.
  39. ^ Socha, Miles (9 September 2020). "Kim Jones to Design Fendi Women's, Continue at Dior Men". WWD.
  40. ^ Uday Sampath and Mimosa Spencer (October 25, 2021), Kim Kardashian West collaborates with luxury label Fendi Reuters.
  41. ^ Lischke, Henrik (12 May 2022). "Fendace Is Here: Get a First Glimpse of 2022's Most Anticipated Designer Drop". Vogue. Retrieved 11 October 2024.
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  45. ^ Bernadine Morris (10 March 1983), Fendi and Lagerfeld triumph in Milan New York Times.
  46. ^ Mary Davis Suro (7 June 1987), Inside the House of Fendi New York Times.
  47. ^ Alexander Fury (7 June 2023), Silvia Venturini Fendi: ‘To be noticed, you need to be decorated’ Financial Times.
  48. ^ Alice Monorchio (1 April 2022), Triple F: Where Vintage and Creativity Meet Women's Wear Daily.
  49. ^ Lisa Lockwood (29 October 1996), Tyler licenses Gruppo Nadini for a collection Women's Wear Daily.
  50. ^ The Story of Fendi
  51. ^ a b Stephanie Epiro and Jennifer Weil (9 February 2009), LVMH Pulling Fendi Scent Women's Wear Daily.
  52. ^ Kerry Olsen (10 September 2010), Fendi Unleashes Fan di Fendi Scent Women's Wear Daily.
  53. ^ Miles Socha (17 May 2024), Amid Internal ‘Rescheduling,’ Fendi to Sit Out June Couture Women's Wear Daily.
  54. ^ Isla Binnie (June 10, 2013), Eyewear maker Safilo and fashion house Fendi agree brand license Reuters.
  55. ^ Giulia Segreti (July 1, 2021), Fendi teams up with Thelios as LVMH focuses on eyewear Reuters.
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  57. ^ C. J. Hughes (21 April 2020), The Latest Fashion Accessory in Miami: A Luxury Condo New York Times.
  58. ^ Sorpresa in casa Fendi, arriva Kim Jones
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  60. ^ Miles Socha (11 October 2024), Kim Jones is Stepping Down at Fendi Women's Wear Daily.
  61. ^ Kim Jones nuovo direttore creativo di Fendi donna. E continua da Dior
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  64. ^ Fendi Studios Celebrates the Brand’s Award-Winning Costumes
  65. ^ The 20 Most Iconic Coats in Movie History
  66. ^ Milan Fashion Week: Fendi on Film
  67. ^ Fendi
  68. ^ Luisa Zargani (20 July 2001), Fall Ads, Italian Style Women's Wear Daily
  69. ^ Luisa Zargani (January 3, 2020), In a First, Fendi Taps Nick Knight for Spring Ads Women's Wear Daily.
  70. ^ Balance of Opposites: FENDI Fall Winter 2022.23 Collection
  71. ^ Fendace Is Here: Get a First Glimpse of 2022’s Most Anticipated Designer Drop
  72. ^ Miles Socha (13 January 2012), A New Version: Fendi Readies Men’s Debut Women's Wear Daily.
  73. ^ Hanna Flanagan (28 October 2019), Watch Catherine Zeta-Jones and Daughter Carys Dance Through Rome in New Fendi Campaign People.
  74. ^ Luisa Zargani (28 July 2020), EXCLUSIVE: Fendi Works With Chloe x Halle, Zoey Deutch on Campaigns Women's Wear Daily.
  75. ^ Vanessa Friedman (10 September 2022), Linda Evangelista, the It Bag and ‘Sex and the City’ New York Times.
  76. ^ Kristopher Fraser (23 March 2023), Naomi Campbell Stars in Fendi’s Peekaboo Bag Spring 2023 Campaign Women's Wear Daily.
  77. ^ Sandra Salibian (13 June 2023), Nicholas Galitzine Named Fendi’s First Global Menswear Ambassador Women's Wear Daily.
  78. ^ Rachel Sanderson (January 30, 2013), Brand Italy puts a price tag on history Financial Times.
  79. ^ "Fendi: why the fashion house is investing in Rome's patrimony". The Week. 5 March 2018. Retrieved 27 March 2018.
  80. ^ Roberts, Andrew (23 June 2014). "Fendi Touts Dolce Vita as Owner LVMH Relies on Brand". Bloomberg.
  81. ^ Vanessa Friedman (July 5, 2019), Fendi, the Legacy of Empire — and Lagerfeld New York Times.
  82. ^ Salibian, Sandra (20 December 2021). "Fendi Unveils Restoration of Rome's Temple of Venus and Rome". WWD. Retrieved 6 March 2022.
  83. ^ "Fendi s'engage dans la restauration de patrimoine à la Villa d'Este". Journal du Luxe. 6 December 2023. Retrieved 1 April 2024.
  84. ^ Luisa Zargani (22 May 2017), Fendi Donates Artwork to Rome Women's Wear Daily.
  85. ^ Luisa Zargani (21 March 2017), Fendi to Support Italian Pavilion at Venice Biennale Women's Wear Daily.
  86. ^ Luisa Zargani (13 September 2017). "Fendi Inks Partnership With Rome's Galleria Borghese". WWD. Retrieved 27 March 2018.
  87. ^ Salibian, Sandra (12 November 2021). "Fendi to Support Make-A-Wish International With Special Fendi Kids T-Shirt". Women's Wear Daily. Retrieved 5 January 2023.
  88. ^ Clark, Imogen (19 November 2021). "Fendi partners with Make-A-Wish foundation to launch charitable kids T-shirt". The Glass Magazine. Retrieved 5 January 2023.
  89. ^ Alessandra Turra (21 July 2021), Fendi Awards Four Juilliard Students Women's Wear Daily.
  90. ^ a b Jonathan Stempel (October 20, 2010), Fendi, Burlington in $10 mln counterfeiting accord Reuters.
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