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IFSC Climbing World Championships

From Wikipedia - Reading time: 17 min

Not to be confused with IFSC Climbing World Cup.
For similar championships for climbers under age of 20, see IFSC Climbing World Youth Championships.
IFSC Climbing World Championships
Seasons
Disciplines
Most gold medals
Slovenia Janja Garnbret (8)

The IFSC Climbing World Championships are the biennial (i.e. held once every two years) world championship event for competition climbing that is organized by the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC). This event determines the male and female world champions in the three disciplines of competition climbing: competition lead climbing, competition bouldering, and competition speed climbing. Since 2012, a combined ranking is also determined, for climbers competing in all disciplines, and additional medals are awarded based on that ranking.[1][2][3][4] The first event was organized in Frankfurt in 1991.

History

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Creation and organizers

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In 1991, the Union Internationale des Associations d'Alpinisme (UIAA) organized the competition climbing championships. The International Council for Competition Climbing (ICC) was created in 1997 as an internal body of the UIAA to take charge of competition climbing.[5]

In 2007, the independent IFSC was created as a continuation of the ICC to govern competition climbing.

Events

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The present format has four disciplines: lead, speed, bouldering, and combined.

The first championships had two events: lead and speed. Bouldering was added in 2001.

In 2012, 2014 and 2016, a combined ranking (sometimes also called overall ranking) was computed for climbers participating in all of the three events.[1][2][3] In 2018, a specific combined event was included which the six climbers with highest overall ranking[6][7] were invited to enter. The combined event requires athletes to compete in all three disciplines, and they receive a single combined score based on all three results. Scores achieved in single-discipline events are not relevant to the combined score, and there are no awards for any one part of the combined event. The 2018 combined event tested the new Olympic Games format, which was used at the first appearance of climbing at the Olympics in 2020. In 2019 the Combined competition was held again with the best eight men's and women's athletes receiving invitations to the 2020 Olympics.

In 2011, the IFSC Paraclimbing World Championships were established. The event is usually held alongside the open class competition. Para athletes compete in lead only, except for 2011 when a speed climbing competition was held as well.

Years

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The World Championships are held every two years. Twice, the cycle has been moved to the other year and in those cases this was done by holding the next championship one year earlier. In 2012 the World Championships were shifted to even years to avoid interference with the 2013 World Games climbing event and to give a supplementary opportunity to demonstrate the sport for a possible integration into the 2020 Olympic Games. In 2019 the World Championships were again held one year early, to now allow the Championships to be the year before each Olympics to operate as a qualifier event.[citation needed]

Championships

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Edition Year Location Date(s) Disciplines Athletes Nations Website Notes
Event L S B C Para
1 1991 Germany Frankfurt 1–2 October 2 X X - - - 110 22 [8]
2 1993 Austria Innsbruck 29–30 April 2 X X - - - 127 23 [9]
3 1995 Switzerland Geneva 5–6 May 2 X X - - - 135 24 [10]
4 1997 France Paris 31 January–1 February 2 X X - - - 153 26 [11]
5 1999 United Kingdom Birmingham 2–3 December 2 X X - - - 180 30 [12]
6 2001 Switzerland Winterthur 5–8 September 3 X X X - - 198 25 [13]
7 2003 France Chamonix 9–13 July 3 X X X - - 241 34 [14]
8 2005 Germany Munich 1–5 July 3 X X X - - 318 51 [15]
9 2007 Spain Avilés 17–23 September 3 X X X - - 302 50 [16]
10 2009 China Xining 30 June – 5 July 4 X X X - - 219 44 [17]
11 2011 Italy Arco 15–24 July 4 X X X - X 374 56 [18]
12 2012 France Paris 12–16 September 5 X X X X X 331 56 [19][1]
13 2014 Germany Munich 21–23 August 1 - - X - - 509 52 [1] [20][2]
Spain Gijón 8–14 September 4 X X - X X [2]
14 2016 France Paris 14–18 September 5 X X X X X 533 53 [3] [21][3][22]
15 2018 Austria Innsbruck 6–16 September 5 X X X X X 834 58 [4] [23][4]
16 2019 France Briançon 16–17 July 1 - - - - X
Japan Hachioji 11–21 August 4 X X X X - 253 39 [5] Archived 20 April 2021 at the Wayback Machine [24][25]
17 2021 Russia Moscow 15–21 September 5 X X X X X [26]
18 2023 Switzerland Bern 1–12 August 5 X X X X X [6]
19 2025 South Korea Seoul[27] 5 X X X X X

Medals

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As of 2023 IFSC Climbing World Championships (excluding paraclimbing medals)

RankNationGoldSilverBronzeTotal
1 Russia16142353
2 Austria157830
3 France14171748
4 Ukraine117523
5 Slovenia97521
6 Czech Republic610420
7 Japan69823
8 Italy6129
9 Poland54918
10 China54110
11 Spain4509
12 United States39416
13 South Korea35412
14 Switzerland3159
15 Canada3104
16 Belgium2608
17 Germany25916
18 Iran1124
19 Indonesia1012
20 Kazakhstan0134
21 Venezuela0101
22 Great Britain0044
23 Serbia0022
24 Netherlands0011
Totals (24 entries)115115117347

Note 1: share medals in 2007 IFSC Climbing World Championships

Note 2: one silver medal in 2021 IFSC Climbing World Championships for Climbing Federation of Russia

Men's results

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Lead

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Year Gold Silver Bronze
1991 France François Legrand Japan Yuji Hirayama Germany Guido Köstermeyer [de]
1993 France François Legrand (2) Germany Stefan Glowacz Japan Yuji Hirayama
1995 France François Legrand (3) France Arnaud Petit [fr] Switzerland Elie Chevieux [de]
1997 France François Petit United States Chris Sharma France François Legrand
1999 Italy Bernardino Lagni [es] Japan Yuji Hirayama Ukraine Maksym Petrenko
2001 France Gérôme Pouvreau [fr] Czech Republic Tomáš Mrázek France François Petit
2003 Czech Republic Tomáš Mrázek Spain Patxi Usobiaga France David Caude [fr]
2005 Czech Republic Tomáš Mrázek (2) Spain Patxi Usobiaga France Alexandre Chabot
2007 Spain Ramón Julián Spain Patxi Usobiaga Switzerland Cédric Lachat [fr]
Czech Republic Tomáš Mrázek
Netherlands Jorg Verhoeven [cs]
2009 Spain Patxi Usobiaga Czech Republic Adam Ondra Austria David Lama
2011 Spain Ramón Julián (2) Austria Jakob Schubert Czech Republic Adam Ondra
2012 Austria Jakob Schubert Canada Sean McColl Czech Republic Adam Ondra
2014 Czech Republic Adam Ondra Spain Ramón Julián Japan Sachi Amma
2016 Czech Republic Adam Ondra (2) Austria Jakob Schubert France Gautier Supper [fr]
2018 Austria Jakob Schubert (2) Czech Republic Adam Ondra Germany Alexander Megos
2019 Czech Republic Adam Ondra (3) Germany Alexander Megos Austria Jakob Schubert
2021 Austria Jakob Schubert (3) Slovenia Luka Potočar United Kingdom Hamish McArthur
2023 Austria Jakob Schubert (4) Japan Sorato Anraku Germany Alexander Megos

Speed

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Year Gold Silver Bronze
1991 United States Hans Florine France Jacky Godoffe [cs] Kazakhstan Kairat Rachmetov [cs]
1993 Russia Vladimir Netsvetaïev [fr] Ukraine Serik Kazbekov [cs] Ukraine Yevgen Kryvosheytsev [cs]
1995 Ukraine Andrey Vedenmeer [fr] Czech Republic Milan Benian [cs] Russia Vladimir Netsvetaïev [fr]
1997 Spain Daniel Andrada [es] Ukraine Yevgen Kryvosheytsev [cs] Russia Dmitrij Byčkov [cs]
1999 Ukraine Vladimir Zakharov [es] Russia Vladimir Netsvetaïev [fr] Russia Alexey Gadeev
2001 Ukraine Maksym Styenkovyy Ukraine Vladimir Zakharov [es] Poland Tomasz Oleksy [pl]
2003 Ukraine Maksym Styenkovyy (2) Poland Tomasz Oleksy [pl] Russia Alexandr Pechekhonov [fr]
2005 Russia Evgeny Vaitcekhovsky Ukraine Maksym Styenkovyy Russia Sergey Sinitsyn [de]
2007 China Zhong Qixin Venezuela Manuel Escobar [cs] Russia Sergey Sinitsyn [de]
2009 (10 m) China Zhong Qixin (2) Kazakhstan Alexandr Nigmatulin [cs] Russia Ivan Novikov [es]
2009 (15 m)[28] China Zhong Qixin (3) Russia Sergey Abdrakhmanov [pl] China Ning Zhang
2011 China Zhong Qixin (4) Russia Stanislav Kokorin Ukraine Danyil Boldyrev
2012 China Zhong Qixin (5) Czech Republic Libor Hroza [cs] Russia Dmitry Timofeev [cs]
2014 Ukraine Danyil Boldyrev Russia Stanislav Kokorin Iran Reza Alipour
2016 Poland Marcin Dzieński Iran Reza Alipour Russia Alexandr Shikov [es]
2018 Iran Reza Alipour France Bassa Mawem Russia Stanislav Kokorin
2019 Italy Ludovico Fossali Czech Republic Jan Kříž [cs] Russia Stanislav Kokorin
2021 Ukraine Danyil Boldyrev (2) Spain Erik Noya Cardona United States Noah Bratschi
2023 Italy Matteo Zurloni China Long Jinbao Indonesia Rahmad Adi Mulyono

Bouldering

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Year Gold Silver Bronze
2001 Italy Mauro Calibani [it] France Frédéric Tuscan [cs] Italy Christian Core
2003 Italy Christian Core France Jérôme Meyer Poland Tomasz Oleksy [pl]
2005 Russia Salavat Rachmetov [cs] Austria Kilian Fischhuber France Gérôme Pouvreau [fr]
2007 Russia Dmitri Sarafutdinov Czech Republic Martin Stráník [cs] Switzerland Cédric Lachat [fr]
2009 Russia Alexey Rubtsov Russia Rustam Gelmanov [cs] United Kingdom David Barrans [pl]
2011 Russia Dmitri Sarafutdinov (2) Czech Republic Adam Ondra Russia Rustam Gelmanov [cs]
2012 Russia Dmitri Sarafutdinov (3) Austria Kilian Fischhuber Russia Rustam Gelmanov [cs]
2014 Czech Republic Adam Ondra Slovenia Jernej Kruder Germany Jan Hojer
2016 Japan Tomoa Narasaki Czech Republic Adam Ondra France Manuel Cornu
2018 Japan Kai Harada South Korea Jongwon Chon Slovenia Gregor Vezonik [cs]
2019 Japan Tomoa Narasaki (2) Austria Jakob Schubert Germany Yannick Flohé
2021 Japan Kokoro Fujii Japan Tomoa Narasaki France Manuel Cornu
2023 France Mickael Mawem France Mejdi Schalck South Korea Lee Do-hyun

Combined

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Year Gold Silver Bronze
2012[1] Canada Sean McColl Germany Thomas Tauporn [de] Switzerland Cédric Lachat [fr]
2014[2] Canada Sean McColl (2) Germany Jan Hojer France Alban Levier [es]
2016[3][22] Canada Sean McColl (3) France Manuel Cornu Germany David Firnenburg [cs]
2018[4] Austria Jakob Schubert Czech Republic Adam Ondra Germany Jan Hojer
2019 Japan Tomoa Narasaki Austria Jakob Schubert Kazakhstan Rishat Khaibullin
2021 Germany Yannick Flohé Germany Philipp Martin Ukraine Fedir Samoilov
2023 Austria Jakob Schubert (2) United States Colin Duffy Japan Tomoa Narasaki

Women's Results

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Lead

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Year Gold Silver Bronze
1991 Switzerland Susi Good [fr] France Isabelle Patissier United States Robyn Erbesfield
1993 Switzerland Susi Good [fr] (2) United States Robyn Erbesfield France Isabelle Patissier
1995 United States Robyn Erbesfield France Laurence Guyon [fr] France Liv Sansoz
1997 France Liv Sansoz Belgium Muriel Sarkany Germany Marietta Uhden [de]
1999 France Liv Sansoz (2) Belgium Muriel Sarkany United States Yelena Ovchinnikova [cs]
2001 Slovenia Martina Čufar [fr] Belgium Muriel Sarkany France Chloé Minoret [fr]
2003 Belgium Muriel Sarkany France Emilie Pouget [pl] France Sandrine Levet
2005 Austria Angela Eiter United States Emily Harrington Japan Akiyo Noguchi
2007 Austria Angela Eiter (2) Belgium Muriel Sarkany Slovenia Maja Vidmar
2009 Austria Johanna Ernst South Korea Kim Ja-in Slovenia Maja Vidmar
2011 Austria Angela Eiter (3) South Korea Kim Ja-in Austria Magdalena Röck [cs]
2012 Austria Angela Eiter (4) South Korea Kim Ja-in Austria Johanna Ernst
2014 South Korea Kim Ja-in Slovenia Mina Markovič Austria Magdalena Röck [cs]
2016 Slovenia Janja Garnbret Belgium Anak Verhoeven Slovenia Mina Markovič
2018 Austria Jessica Pilz Slovenia Janja Garnbret South Korea Kim Ja-in
2019 Slovenia Janja Garnbret (2) Slovenia Mia Krampl Japan Ai Mori
2021 South Korea Seo Chae-hyun United States Natalia Grossman Italy Laura Rogora
2023 Japan Ai Mori Slovenia Janja Garnbret South Korea Seo Chae-hyun

Speed

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Year Gold Silver Bronze
1991 Belgium Isabelle Dorsimond [fr] France Agnès Brard [es] Russia Venera Chereshneva [cs]
1993 Russia Olga Bibik [fr] Belgium Isabelle Dorsimond [fr] Poland Renata Piszczek [pl]
1995 France Natalie Richer [fr] France Cécile Avezou [fr] Poland Renata Piszczek [pl]
1997 Russia Tatiana Ruyga Russia Irina Zaytseva Russia Olga Bibik [fr]
1999 Ukraine Olga Zakharova Ukraine Olena Ryepko [fr] Russia Natalia Novikova [es]
2001 Ukraine Olena Ryepko [fr] Russia Maya Piratinskaya Russia Svetlana Sutkina
2003 Ukraine Olena Ryepko [fr] (2) Russia Tatiana Ruyga Russia Valentina Yurina
2005 Ukraine Olena Ryepko [fr] (3) Russia Valentina Yurina Poland Edyta Ropek [pl]
2007 Russia Tatiana Ruyga (2) Poland Edyta Ropek [pl] Russia Valentina Yurina
2009 (10 m) China He Cuilian China He Cuifang China Li Chunhua
2009 (15 m) China He Cuilian (2) China He Cuifang China Li Chunhua
2011 Russia Maria Krasavina Russia Anna Tsyganova Kazakhstan Tamara Kuznetsova
2012 Russia Yulia Levochkina Russia Iuliia Kaplina Russia Natalia Titova
2014 Russia Alina Gaidamakina Poland Klaudia Buczek Poland Aleksandra Rudzińska (later with last name: Mirosław)
2016 Russia Anna Tsyganova France Anouck Jaubert Russia Iuliia Kaplina
2018 Poland Aleksandra Mirosław Poland Anna Brożek Russia Maria Krasavina
2019 Poland Aleksandra Mirosław (2) China Di Niu France Anouck Jaubert
2021 Poland Natalia Kałucka Climbing Federation of Russia Iuliia Kaplina Poland Aleksandra Mirosław
2023 Indonesia Desak Made Rita Kusuma Dewi United States Emma Hunt Poland Aleksandra Mirosław

Bouldering

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Year Gold Silver Bronze
2001 France Myriam Motteau [fr] France Sandrine Levet Ukraine Nataliya Perlova [cs]
2003 France Sandrine Levet Ukraine Nataliya Perlova [cs] France Fanny Rogeaux [es]
2005 Ukraine Olga Shalagina [fr] Russia Julija Abramčuková [cs] Czech Republic Věra Kotasová-Kostruhová [cs]
2007 Austria Anna Stöhr Japan Akiyo Noguchi Russia Olga Bibik
2009 Russia Julija Abramčuková [cs] Ukraine Olga Shalagina [fr] Austria Anna Stöhr
2011 Austria Anna Stöhr (2) United States Sasha DiGiulian Germany Juliane Wurm [de]
2012 France Mélanie Sandoz [fr] Russia Olga Yakovleva [cs] Austria Anna Stöhr
2014 Germany Juliane Wurm [de] United States Alex Puccio Japan Akiyo Noguchi
2016 Switzerland Petra Klingler Japan Miho Nonaka Japan Akiyo Noguchi
2018 Slovenia Janja Garnbret Japan Akiyo Noguchi Serbia Staša Gejo
2019 Slovenia Janja Garnbret (2) Japan Akiyo Noguchi United Kingdom Shauna Coxsey
2021 United States Natalia Grossman Italy Camilla Moroni [es] Serbia Staša Gejo
2023 Slovenia Janja Garnbret (3) France Oriane Bertone United States Brooke Raboutou

Combined

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Year Gold Silver Bronze
2012 South Korea Kim Ja-in France Cécile Avezou [fr] Switzerland Petra Klingler
2014[2] France Charlotte Durif [fr] Switzerland Petra Klingler Slovenia Mina Markovič
2016[3][22] Russia Jelena Krasovská [cs] United States Claire Buhrfeind [es] France Charlotte Durif [fr]
2018[4] Slovenia Janja Garnbret South Korea Sa Sol [de] Austria Jessica Pilz
2019 Slovenia Janja Garnbret (2) Japan Akiyo Noguchi United Kingdom Shauna Coxsey
2021 Austria Jessica Pilz Slovenia Mia Krampl Iran Elnaz Rekabi
2023 Slovenia Janja Garnbret (3) Austria Jessica Pilz Japan Ai Mori

See also

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References

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  1. ^ a b c d "IFSC Climbing World Championship 2012 – Overall rankings" (PDF). EGroupware@ifsc-climbing.org. Archived (PDF) from the original on 17 September 2018. Retrieved 17 September 2018.
  2. ^ a b c d e "IFSC Climbing World Championship 2014 – Combined rankings". IFSC. Archived from the original on 18 September 2018. Retrieved 17 September 2018.
  3. ^ a b c d e "IFSC Climbing World Championship 2016 – Overall rankings" (PDF). IFSC. Archived (PDF) from the original on 6 July 2017. Retrieved 17 September 2018.
  4. ^ a b c d "IFSC Climbing World Championship 2018 – Combined results". IFSC. Retrieved 17 September 2018.
  5. ^ "Climbing Competitions' History". ifsc-climbing.org. Archived from the original on 24 September 2015. Retrieved 12 May 2013.
  6. ^ "2018 World Championships – Combined general result – Men". IFSC. Retrieved 21 September 2018.
  7. ^ "2018 World Championships – Combined general result – Women". IFSC. Retrieved 21 September 2018.
  8. ^ "UIAA World Championship – Frankfurt 1991". ifsc-climbing.org. Archived from the original on 4 March 2016. Retrieved 17 May 2013.
  9. ^ "UIAA World Championship – Innsbruck 1993". ifsc-climbing.org. Archived from the original on 4 March 2016. Retrieved 17 May 2013.
  10. ^ "UIAA World Championship – Genève 1995". ifsc-climbing.org. Archived from the original on 4 March 2016. Retrieved 17 May 2013.
  11. ^ "UIAA World Championship – Paris 1997". ifsc-climbing.org. Archived from the original on 27 September 2016. Retrieved 17 May 2013.
  12. ^ "UIAA World Championship – Birmingham (GBR) 1999". ifsc-climbing.org. Archived from the original on 4 March 2016. Retrieved 17 May 2013.
  13. ^ "UIAA World Championship – Winterthur (SUI) 2001". ifsc-climbing.org. Archived from the original on 4 March 2016. Retrieved 17 May 2013.
  14. ^ "UIAA Worldchampionship – Chamonix (FRA) 2003". ifsc-climbing.org. Archived from the original on 4 March 2016. Retrieved 17 May 2013.
  15. ^ "UIAA World Championship – Munich (GER) 2005". ifsc-climbing.org. Archived from the original on 4 March 2016. Retrieved 17 May 2013.
  16. ^ "IFSC Climbing World Championship (L + B + S) – Aviles (ESP) 2007". ifsc-climbing.org. Archived from the original on 27 September 2016. Retrieved 17 May 2013.
  17. ^ "IFSC Climbing World Championships – Qinghai (CHN) 2009". ifsc-climbing.org. Archived from the original on 4 March 2016. Retrieved 17 May 2013.
  18. ^ "IFSC Climbing World Championships – Arco (ITA) 2011". ifsc-climbing.org. Archived from the original on 1 June 2015. Retrieved 17 May 2013.
  19. ^ "IFSC Climbing World Championship – Paris (FRA) 2012". ifsc-climbing.org. Archived from the original on 5 March 2014. Retrieved 17 May 2013.
  20. ^ "World Championships".
  21. ^ "IFSC Climbing World Championship 2016". IFSC. Retrieved 17 September 2018.
  22. ^ a b c "IFSC Climbing World Championship 2016 – Overall rankings" (PDF). EGroupware@ifsc-climbing.org. Archived (PDF) from the original on 19 October 2016. Retrieved 17 September 2018.
  23. ^ "IFSC Climbing World Championship 2018". IFSC. Retrieved 17 September 2018.
  24. ^ "IFSC Climbing World Championships – Hachioji (JPN) 2019". ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 25 August 2019.
  25. ^ "IFSC Climbing World Championships Combined – Hachioji (JPN) 2019". ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 25 August 2019.
  26. ^ "IFSC Plenary Assembly 2019 – A full recap". IFSC. 16 March 2019. Retrieved 17 May 2019.
  27. ^ 2025 CLIMBING WORLD CHAMPIONSHIPS TO BE HELD IN SEOUL
  28. ^ "IFSC Climbing World Championships – Qinghai (CHN) 2009 – 15 m Speed".
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