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Sport climbing at the 2020 Summer Olympics – Qualification

From Wikipedia - Reading time: 9 min

Sport climbing at the
2020 Summer Olympics
List of sport climbers
Qualification
Combinedmenwomen

There were 40 quota spots available for sport climbing at the 2020 Summer Olympics (postponed to 2021[1] due to the COVID-19 pandemic). Each National Olympic Committee (NOC) could obtain a maximum of 2 spots in each event (total 4 maximum across the 2 events). Each event had 20 competitors qualify: 18 from qualifying, 1 from the host (Japan), and 1 from Tripartite Commission invitations.[2]

Timeline

[edit]
Event Date[3] Venue
World Championships August 11–22, 2019 Japan Hachioji
World Olympic Qualifying Event November 28 – December 1, 2019 France Toulouse[4]
Pan American Championships February 24 – March 1, 2020 United States Los Angeles[5]
European Championships November 19–29, 2020[6] Russia Moscow[7]
Asian Championships Cancelled[8] Japan Morioka[7]
China Xiamen[9]
African Championships December 17–20, 2020[10] South Africa Cape Town[7]
Oceania Championships December 19–20, 2020[11] Australia Sydney[7]

The European, African, Oceania and Asian Championships were postponed due to the COVID-19 pandemic.[12][13] The Asian Championship was later cancelled due to travel restrictions in Asian countries resulting from the pandemic.[8]

Qualification

[edit]

Japan, as the host, was guaranteed at least one place. Initially the rules were interpreted such that this spot would only be used if no Japanese athlete would manage to qualify through the other qualifying events.[14]

The first qualifying opportunity was the Combined World Championship, where the top seven finishers earned one quota place.[7] Since four Japanese climbers qualified during this event (two male, two female), the unused Host Country Place went to the next highest placed climber in the Combined World Championships who is not yet qualified and doesn't come from a country with 2 climbers already qualified.[15]

The second opportunity, the Olympic Qualifying Event featured the next 22 ranked athletes in the World Cup standings who had not yet received an Olympic invitation; of these, the top six qualified for the Olympic Games.[16]

Between February and May 2020 each continent was to host a Continental Combined Championship, with the best finisher who is not already qualified earning a quota spot. Only the Pan-American Championships was held before the coronavirus pandemic halted competition. In February 2020, to address potential cancellations of continental championships due to the pandemic, IFSC updated the qualification guidelines to read, "Unused quota from any Continental Championship, will be reallocated to the next highest placed athlete from the relevant continent, not yet qualified, in the Combined World Championships 2019, respecting the maximum quota per gender per NOC."[17]

With the IFSC Climbing Asian Championships cancelled, Jongwon Chon and Seo Chae-hyun, both of South Korea, are the qualifiers.[8][18]

The Tripartite Commission invitation was to be allocated after the continental championships, but the deadline was missed, and places were awarded to the next highest qualified eligible finishers at 2019 World Championships.[19][20]

Selection

[edit]

After athletes qualify, they are allocated a quota space by the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC), which must be confirmed by their National Olympic Committee (NOC).[20] In some cases the NOC might choose not to use a quota place in order to decide who fills the quota at a later date. During the Combined World Championships Japanese climbers Akiyo Noguchi, Miho Nonaka, Tomoa Narasaki and Kai Harada earned a quota place, but only Noguchi and Narasaki were subsequently confirmed to qualify for the Olympics.[7][21] Later the IFSC and the Japan Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Association (JMSCA) confirmed both Nonaka and Harada as Olympic-qualified athletes.[16][22]

In November 2019 the Japanese Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Association (JMSCA) opened a lawsuit against the IFSC related to uncertainties in the qualification system and how the 'host place' qualification could be used. Associated rule changes also affected selection pathways for athletes from other countries.[15] However, the Court for Arbitration in Sport (CAS) dismissed the suit in December 2020.[23]

Qualified countries

[edit]
NOC Men Women Total
 Australia 1 1 2
 Austria 1 1 2
 Canada 1 1 2
 China 1 1 2
 Czech Republic 1 1
 France 2 2 4
 Germany 2 2
 Great Britain 1 1
 Italy 2 1 3
 Japan 2 2 4
 Kazakhstan 1 1
 Poland 1 1
 ROC† 1 2 3
 Slovenia 2 2
 South Africa 1 1 2
 South Korea 1 1 2
 Spain 1 1
 Switzerland 1 1
 United States 2 2 4
Total: 19 NOCs 20 20 40
† Russian athletes were allowed to compete in the Olympics under the acronym "ROC" using the flag of the Russian Olympic Committee.[24][25]

Qualified athletes

[edit]
Standard Places Men's Women's
Host place 1  Kai Harada (JPN)[22]  Miho Nonaka (JPN)[22]
World Championship 7  Tomoa Narasaki (JPN)
 Jakob Schubert (AUT)
 Rishat Khaibullin (KAZ)
 Mickaël Mawem (FRA)
 Alexander Megos (GER)
 Ludovico Fossali (ITA)
 Sean McColl (CAN) 		 Janja Garnbret (SLO)
 Akiyo Noguchi (JPN)[26]
 Shauna Coxsey (GBR)
 Aleksandra Mirosław (POL)
 Petra Klingler (SUI)
 Brooke Raboutou (USA)
 Jessica Pilz (AUT)
World Olympic Qualifying Event 6  Adam Ondra (CZE)
 Bassa Mawem (FRA)
 Jan Hojer (GER)
 Pan Yufei (CHN)
 Alberto Ginés López (ESP)
 Nathaniel Coleman (USA) 		 Julia Chanourdie (FRA)
 Mia Krampl (SLO)
 Iuliia Kaplina (ROC)
 Kyra Condie (USA)
 Laura Rogora (ITA)
 Song Yiling (CHN)
Pan American Championships 1  Colin Duffy (USA)  Alannah Yip (CAN)
African Championships 1  Christopher Cosser (RSA)  Erin Sterkenburg (RSA)
European Championships 1  Alexey Rubtsov (ROC)  Viktoriia Meshkova (ROC)
Oceania Championships 1  Tom O'Halloran (AUS)  Oceana Mackenzie (AUS)
Asian Championships 0‡ — —
Tripartite Commission 0‡ — —
Reallocation 2  Chon Jong-won (KOR)[8][18]
 Michael Piccolruaz (ITA)[19]		  Seo Chae-hyun (KOR)[8][18]
 Anouck Jaubert (FRA)[19]
Total 20
‡ These slots were reallocated due to the Asian Championship being cancelled and the Tripartite Commission missing the deadline.

References

[edit]
  1. ^ "Joint Statement from the International Olympic Committee and the Tokyo 2020 Organising Committee". IOC. 24 March 2020. Retrieved 15 April 2022.
  2. ^ Qualification System – Games of the XXXII Olympiad – Sport climbing; International Federation of Sport Climbing, 15 March 2018
  3. ^ "IFSC Tokyo 2020". Archived from the original on 18 January 2020. Retrieved 8 January 2020.
  4. ^ "IFSC Combined Qualifier – Toulouse/Tournefeuille (FRA) 2019". www.ifsc-climbing.org. Archived from the original on 2021-08-10. Retrieved 2021-08-10.
  5. ^ "2019–2020 Pan-American Events Announced". www.ifsc-climbing.org. Archived from the original on 25 February 2020. Retrieved 25 February 2020.
  6. ^ "IFSC EUROPE – CONTINENTAL CHAMPIONSHIPS (B,S,L,C) – MOSCOW (RUS) 2020". www.ifsc-climbing.org. IFSC. Archived from the original on 26 September 2020. Retrieved 22 September 2020.
  7. ^ a b c d e f "Where do we stand on Tokyo 2020 Olympic qualification in sport climbing?". Olympic Channel. Archived from the original on 2019-08-19. Retrieved 2019-08-19.
  8. ^ a b c d e "IFSC ASIAN CHAMPIONSHIPS IN XIAMEN CANCELLED". aroundtherings.com. 14 December 2020. Archived from the original on 7 October 2021. Retrieved 14 December 2020.
  9. ^ "IFSC ASIA – CONTINENTAL CHAMPIONSHIPS (C) – XIAMEN (CHN) 09 – 13 DECEMBER 2020". www.ifsc-climbing.org. IFSC. Archived from the original on 26 September 2020. Retrieved 1 October 2020.
  10. ^ "IFSC AFRICA – CONTINENTAL CHAMPIONSHIPS (C) 2020 09 – 13 DECEMBER 2020". www.ifsc-climbing.org. IFSC. Archived from the original on 19 September 2020. Retrieved 1 October 2020.
  11. ^ "IFSC OCEANIA – CONTINENTAL CHAMPIONSHIPS (C) – SYDNEY (AUS) 2020 18 – 20 DECEMBER 2020". www.ifsc-climbing.org. IFSC. Archived from the original on 26 September 2020. Retrieved 1 October 2020.
  12. ^ "European Climbing Championships and Boulder World Cup postponed". Planetmountain. 15 March 2020. Archived from the original on 20 March 2020. Retrieved 20 March 2020.
  13. ^ "Update on IFSC Competitions". IFSC. 13 March 2020. Archived from the original on 20 March 2020. Retrieved 20 March 2020.
  14. ^ "Last Olympic sport climbing spots assigned against Japan's wishes". The Japan Times. 13 December 2020. Archived from the original on 13 December 2020. Retrieved 13 December 2020.
  15. ^ a b Natalie Berry (November 8, 2019). "Japanese Federation sues IFSC, Olympic Selection Rule Changes Confuse". UK Climbing. Archived from the original on November 11, 2020. Retrieved November 25, 2019.
  16. ^ a b Natalie Berry (November 21, 2019). "IFSC Releases Toulouse Combined Qualifier Startlist". UK Climbing. Archived from the original on September 12, 2020. Retrieved November 25, 2019.
  17. ^ "QUALIFICATION SYSTEM – GAMES OF THE XXXII OLYMPIAD – TOKYO 2020" (PDF) (Press release). International Federation of Sport Climbing. 28 February 2020. Archived (PDF) from the original on 2 June 2021. Retrieved 6 March 2020.
  18. ^ a b c Corrigan, Kevin (4 March 2020). "IFSC Announces Coronavirus Contingency Plan for Asian Championship Olympic Qualification Spots". Climbing. Archived from the original on 23 April 2020. Retrieved 6 March 2020.
  19. ^ a b c "France's Jaubert and Italy's Piccolruaz earn ticket for Tokyo 2020". www.ifsc-climbing.org. IFSC. 30 April 2020. Archived from the original on 21 May 2020. Retrieved 1 May 2020.
  20. ^ a b "Qualification System – Games of the XXXII Olympiad – Tokyo 2020 – Sport Climbing" (PDF). www.ifsc-climbing.org. 2 March 2021. Archived (PDF) from the original on 9 June 2021. Retrieved 9 June 2021.
  21. ^ John Burgman (August 21, 2019). "Highs and Lows: 2019 Climbing World Championships". Climbing.com. Archived from the original on September 2, 2019. Retrieved September 2, 2019.
  22. ^ a b c "Confirmed qualified athletes". www.ifsc-climbing.org. IFSC. 4 November 2019. Archived from the original on 29 November 2019. Retrieved 25 November 2019.
  23. ^ "Last Olympic sport climbing spots assigned against Japan's wishes". The Japan Times. 13 December 2020. Archived from the original on 13 December 2020. Retrieved 14 December 2020.
  24. ^ Tariq Panja (December 9, 2019). "Russia Banned From Olympics and Global Sports for 4 Years Over Doping". The New York Times. Archived from the original on October 28, 2020. Retrieved October 26, 2020.
  25. ^ "Olympics: Russia to compete under ROC acronym in Tokyo as part of doping sanctions". Reuters. Reuters. 2021-02-19. Archived from the original on 2021-02-20. Retrieved 2021-02-20.
  26. ^ "Sport climbing: Japan's Noguchi earns Tokyo Olympic berth with world silver". The Mainichi. 21 August 2019. Archived from the original on 20 August 2019. Retrieved 20 August 2019.
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