Ōshima Tsumugi

Ōshima Tsumugi is a type of silk textile mainly used for making kimono employing the shime-bata technique to make kasuri threads, which are then handwoven into a kimono on the island of Amami Ōshima in Kagoshima Prefecture.^[1]

Ōshima Tsumugi is dyed with iron-rich mud and red dye from the bark of the sharinbai tree. This dyes the fabric a deep black color. Currently there is only one mud dyeing workshop remaining on the island, Kanai Koubo. ^[2][3]

The silk threads are first woven with cotton threads in a process called shime-bata. Only the exposed parts of the silk threads will take the dye. This fabric is then unwoven, and the cotton threads are discarded. This process produces kasuri thread, which is then handwoven to create the extremely intricate patterns in which Ōshima Tsumugi is famous for.

Ōshima Tsumugi is extremely popular with kimono wearers as it rarely stretches out of shape, doesn't show up dirt, and its texture becomes shinier with wear. To make just one kimono about thirty steps are necessary to create it, taking about six months to one year to make one kimono. Ōshima Tsumug kimono are usually worn as casual kimono but are often worn by the people on the island of Amami Ōshima for formal events.^[4]

Currently there are about 11,908 people engaged in the production of Ōshima Tsumugi managed by 748 different companies. There are also 141 government-recognized Master-craftspeople involved, including dyers, weavers, and many more.^[5]

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